Get a taste of South America at Churrasco Brazil in Villa Park

Lots of restaurants claim to offer an "experience" - from subpar-themed chains to fast-food giants whose only real business is real estate management. And from the outset, the Brazilian steakhouse explosion during the past couple of years feels similar. The trend had some novelty, but based on the number of steakhouses that opened and have since closed, interest might have peaked. Perhaps that's due to how insanely expensive they can be; it felt like only an audience with a certain income level could be seen there. In the case of newly opened Churrasco Brazil in Villa Park, things are a little bit different. Dinner prices are lower than average, and weekday lunch, at less than $20, is a good deal. And that's just the prices.

The scene

To be sure, this isn't Old Country Buffet (not that there is anything wrong with Old Country Buffet!) True, Churrasco seats by the hundreds, but we're talking white tablecloths, oversized wine glasses, dark burgundies, marble and mahogany. Situated in what was formerly Venuti's Italian Restaurant, the place is rather grand. Large paintings depict country life and the tradition of gauchos and roasted meat on swords, while a down-tempo soundtrack sings in Portuguese. So even before any of the food gets to your table, you are most certainly immersed in the experience.

The food

A sizable salad bar lines the outside of the kitchen, offering such cold goodies as deli meats, steamed asparagus, fresh mozzarella, three different kinds of olives and hot stuff, like delicious ground beef in eggplant, steamed fish and even lasagna, of all things.

But the true ceremony starts after the salad bar, after the never ending entree sides (don't miss out on creamy mashed potatoes and a gorgeous fried banana): Gauchos circle your table, skewers and knives in hand, and depending on which side you turned your coaster to - stop or go - they will just keep coming. The gauchos slice small amounts of meat, which you then grab with your third utensil - the tongs you have at your disposal - and then you eat. And eat. We, or rather they, started with the Brazilian pork sausage, roasted chicken legs and parmesan crusted pork tenderloin. The sausage was a just a little dry, while the chicken legs were small and tender. The pork had the most flavor of all the first-batch options. The technique to this style of barbecuing is all about slow roasting above strong, medium or slow fire from the coals. The only outside seasoning in the cooking process is the use of salt, though even that is not

ubiquitous and is used only with certain meats. So what's the secret to getting all the juicy flavor? The meat's own juices, which baste the meat while it turns. Next up was the parade of red meat: The picanha, the piece of meat you may recall seeing in advertisements for this type of restaurant, is a top sirloin cut with a good half-inch of fat on top. In South America, the picanha is often considered the best cut. Next up was lamb, which we suspect may have been "of age," so to speak, and not of the tenderness we expected.

A bit of rest was required around this time, so wine drinking took precedence. The wine list seemed surprisingly ordinary, with lots of Robert Mondovi and other California brands. The exceptions were wines from Chile, such as the red Primus, a bouquet with a very deep dark flavor and color to match. The coasters were then turned once again, signaling the need for some top and bottom sirloin, as well as bacon-wrapped filet mignon and chicken. One could say the "meat overdose" was in full force.

There was simply no room for dessert, but for those who can handle it, dessert is priced separately and includes Brazilian flan and the very popular cream of papaya.

The experience

The service here was exceptionally attentive and polite. Everything was explained to us, shown and suggested. Three different people took care of us, and they did so in perfect choreography. Whether this was because the restaurant was only about a quarter full or because everyone gets this much attention all the time, one thing was clear - the meat is amazing, and you get your money's worth.