Gluten: Alternative flours aid bakers

Going gluten free probably never will be easy.

That's because those pesky proteins common to wheat and other grains can show up in the most unlikely places, from sour creams and chocolate milks to salad dressings and dips.

But life is getting easier for the estimated 1.5 million to 3 million Americans with celiac disease, a condition that leaves them unable to digest gluten. As awareness has grown, so have the number of products and books to help people cope.

"It's like night and day," Danna Korn, author of several gluten-free cookbooks, says of the availability of gluten-free products now compared to when she first needed them for her gluten-intolerant son 17 years ago.

"I walked into a store and said, 'Hi, where's your gluten-free department?'" she says. "There was one type of bread that was less tasteful than sawdust glued together. I cried as my son ate it."

Today, choices abound. Once a niche of the natural foods market, gluten-free products now can be found in mainstream grocers. Even King Arthur Flour Co. is launching a line of gluten-free mixes.

And just as importantly, the quality of these products is markedly better.

Part of what makes gluten so hard to avoid is that it is an essential component of so many everyday products. The elastic nature of gluten proteins is what enables breads and other baked goods to rise.

Gluten also is a common additive in processed foods, often used as a thickening agent.

The easiest way to avoid gluten is to stick with unprocessed foods that are naturally gluten-free, such as produce, most dairy, nuts, beans, meat, poultry, seafood, eggs, rice, corn, potatoes and grains such quinoa, buckwheat and millet.

And most ethnic cuisines - including Mexican, Indian, Chinese (use wheat-free soy sauce) and Ethiopian - rarely use gluten. So switching to a gluten-free diet involves more of a shift in perspective than a departure from good taste.

"(Eating gluten free) can open people up to a different way of eating. The American diet is pretty narrow. I eat more varieties of food, produce and ethnic foods than I ever have in my life," says Shauna James Ahern, author of "Gluten-Free Girl," a memoir and cookbook based off her blog glutenfreegirl.blogspot.com.

But even with all these new products, going gluten free still involves a learning curve. Recipes without gluten - especially baked goods - don't behave the way their conventional counterparts do.

So here are some tips from the experts for making the most of all those new products.

There are numerous flours than can be used in place of those that contain gluten. It's best to experiment to find a taste and texture you like. And be sure to try combinations of them.

Sorghum flour, for example, can provide protein and structure to a baked good, while potato starch can help lighten and soften the crumb. Tapioca flour can give it a more traditional breadlike consistency.

Carol Fenster, author of "Gluten-Free Quick & Easy," suggests making your own basic flour blend with 1 cups sorghum flour, 1 cups potato starch or cornstarch, and 1 cup of tapioca flour.

Think thickeners. Without gluten to act as a binder in breads and other baked goods, you won't get much rise unless you replace it. Xanthan and guar gums (both available at natural foods stores) are all-natural substitutes.

Start with quick breads and cookies. They are generally easier to make than bread.

Let ingredients come to room temperature before using them. This helps the rising process.

As with all baking, accuracy is key. So make sure you measure carefully.

Aerate flour by stirring it with a whisk before measuring. Don't pack the measuring cup. And after you've filled the measuring cup, level it with a knife. Skipping that last step can add 20 percent more flour to you recipe.

Don't over-cream butter and sugar when making cookies. Blend them just enough to combine the ingredients, then refrigerate the dough for a few hours or overnight to make it easier to shape, suggests Ahern.

Gluten-free doughs and batters are almost always wetter than their conventional counterparts. Bread dough should be the consistency of cake batter and does not need to be kneaded.

Gluten-free bread doughs need only one rising.

Bake in smaller portions. Two smaller loaves of bread will come out better than one large loaf. Round pans bake better than square ones.

Use nonstick pans for breads and quick breads. And use a little extra oil or butter to coat them. Avoid glass, aluminum and ceramic; your goodies may not cook evenly and can stick to these pans.

Invest in parchment paper or a silicone baking pan liner for delicious cookies that don't stick or fall apart immediately. You can reuse parchment paper several times.

Store bread and baked goods in the refrigerator or freezer - or just eat them immediately. This improves the consistency and helps prevent mold. Gently toast or warm them on a low power setting in the microwave.

Allow for flops. "You kind of have to allow yourself to be a mad scientist. You can always chop it up for breadcrumbs," says Ahern.

If your grocer and natural foods store don't have the ingredients you need, check out The Gluten-free Mall at www.glutenfreemall.com and Bob's Red Mill at www.bobsredmill.com.

Gluten-free pizza crust

1 tablespoon active dry yeast

¾ cup warm milk (about 110 degrees)

1 teaspoon sugar

2/3 cup sorghum flour

cup tapioca flour

2 teaspoons xanthan gum

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon gelatin powder (such as Knox brand)

1 teaspoon Italian seasoning

1 teaspoon olive oil

1 teaspoon cider vinegar

Rice flour, for dusting

Heat oven to 425 degrees. Lightly oil a 12-inch nonstick pizza pan.

In a small bowl, combine the yeast, milk and sugar. Stir to dissolve, then aside for 5 minutes.

In a food processor, combine the milk mixture with all remaining ingredients except the rice flour. Process until the ingredients come together and form a ball. The dough will be soft.

Transfer the dough to the prepared pan. Liberally sprinkle the dough with rice flour, then use your hands to press the dough into the pan, continuing to dust with flour as needed to prevent sticking. Make the edges thicker to contain toppings.

Bake for 10 minutes, then remove the crust from the oven and add sauce, toppings and cheese. Bake for another 20-25 minutes, or until the top is nicely browned.

Makes one 12-inch crust.

Adapted from "Gluten-Free Quick & Easy" by Carol Fenster (2007 Avery)

Gluten-free lemon oil cookies