Torrontes fits better with flip-flops than suits and ties

If you enjoy a delicate, dry-ish white wine cocktail or if your menu choices lighten as the weather warms up, then stop by your wine and liquor store or boutique shop and ask for Torrontes.

Torrontes (tor-AHN-tez) is Argentina's signature white grape. Along with Malbec, the country's signature red, Torrontes has vaulted Argentina into the international market with easy-to-enjoy and well-made wines in all price categories, beginning at about $10.

Unlike Malbec, which claims direct lineage to the upper-crust wines of Bordeaux, France, Torrontes is the New World immigrant, with little information about family roots in the old country, or even which country that might be.

Is it descended from the Torrontes growing in northwest Spain? Is it indigenous to Argentina? Is Torontel Verdil, grown in Chile for fiery Pisco brandy, a cousin? These and other theories have been challenged recently by DNA testing suggesting that Torrontes is a hybrid of eastern Europe's Muscat of Alexandria and Criolla Chica -- itself a Creole, bred of European and indeterminate native American parentage.

With its family tree still a sapling, Torrontes won't garner critical praise of "classic" or "complex," but how much complexity do you need swinging in a hammock? The beauty of Torrontes is its easy-going nature, more comfortable with shorts and flip-flops than a suit and wingtips.

Now that South American wines comprise the fastest growing category in U.S. wines sales, new Torrontes enters the market everyday. These are some of my favorites:

Crios de Susana Balbo -- A standard for top-quality Torrontes, Crios combines Viognier's creamy texture, Riesling's vitality and the stone fruit and mineral complexity of Albarino. This fuller style is a Chardonnay alternative, for a rich cocktail and complement to complex seafood and white meats, including Asian and Latino dishes. About $14. (Crios means "children" or "offspring"; the label depicts three overlapping hands, an image inspired by a Mayan artifact, representing winemaker Susana and her two children.)

Tomero -- Light in body, bright yellow in color with a gardenlike bouquet of rose, orange blossom and jasmine and the sweet-tart tang of lime and other citrus fruits. About $10.

Santa Julia -- "Guess how much it costs! Go ahead, guess!" The delighted importer poured his mystery white for press attendees at Chicago's classical Mexican spot, Frontera Grill. "$12? $15?" we offered, sensing a scoop. "It's $8! Just $8!" crowed the importer, knowing a top-seller when he tasted it. Over lunch of ceviche, quesadillas and empanadas, our guest of honor, vintner Jose Alberto Zuccardi said "For my family, wine is both tradition and innovation."

One of familia Zuccardi's innovations is a commitment to organic agriculture, so along with the standard label, Santa Julia bottles the organically-grown Santa Julia "Organica" and Vida Organica, (only at Whole Foods Markets); both about $10.

Your fiesta to pair with Torrontes will be as easy as the wine itself. Argentine cuisine is unique within South America for Old World influence, especially favoring foods of Italy.

Pizza is a national favorite, especially prepared with musarela, similar to mozzarella. Noodles and pastas (always spelled in the plural) are covered with grated parmesan or served with generous tuco (sauce), including pesto or salsa blanca (bechamel).

Cured meats, including prosciuttolike ham, are served in an infinite variety of sandwiches, including pebete -- Argentina's BLT -- a soft bun filled with cheese, cured meat, tomato and mayonnaise.

Argentina's coastline, rivers and lagoons make fish a staple, with oysters, shellfish, trout, squid and other seafood prepared in pates, roasts, grills, stews and empanadas.

Ross choice

Magnus Riesling, 2006

Leasingham Wines

Clare Valley, Australia

Suggested retail and availability: About $12 at fine wine and liquor stores.

Not long ago, Southern Hemisphere was all the definition Australian wine received. Today, regions and sub-regions have distinguished themselves as world-class sites for specific grapes. Clare Valley and Riesling is such as partnership, with power, steely acidity and lime-lemon flavors added to the balance, minerality and elegance of Mosel, Wachau and Alsace. Unfortunately many also add at least $10 to the price tag. Not so Magnus, accessibly priced, delicious and reflective of its region. Serve as an exciting cocktail and complement medium-bodied seafood and meats (especially smoked), salads and other veggie dishes.