Don't let yourself fall into a Pinot Grigio rut

Don't wait for Memorial Day to enjoy Italian whites

Pinot Grigio may be an introduction to Italian whites for many wine drinkers, but it shouldn't be the whole conversation.

No doubt, red wine is Italy's priority; the home market drinks about twice as much red as white. But Italy's top export destination -- the U.S. -- has traditionally been a white wine market and repository for the Italian cash cow: innocuous (at best) white wines to be quickly made and quickly sold.

In the past decade, however, U.S. white sales slumped in response to continued reports on the benefit of red wine drinking. In addition, Italy's total consumption dropped, a result of the break-up of extended family living, at-home meals and other lifestyle changes.

So now, many Italian producers compete for white wine sales with quality as well as quantity. Here are styles and producers to look for:

Arneis (ar-NAZE) is an indigenous grape of Piedmont in northwest Italy. In local dialect, Arneis means "little rascal," recalling the grape's mischievous nature. Difficult to grow, it hovers between extinction and endangerment, with only a handful of producers at any time. Loyal supporters, however, point to intriguing aromas and silky flavors combining pears, almonds, anise and herbs. Seek out bottlings by Vietti, Bruno Giacosa and Castello di Neive ($20-$30 at fine wine shops).

Soave (sa-WAH-vay), grown in the northeast Veneto region, was a victim of its own success. Fratelli Bolla (the first Italian company to import wines to the U.S. after World War II) made Soave a grocery store staple, but sacrificed quality and regional characteristics for quantity. In 1968, the Classico (original) zone was expanded far beyond the hillsides surrounding the city of Verona into alluvial plains, more suited to cereal grain than grapes.

The expansion was a wake-up call to fine producers such as Anselmi, Inama and Pieropan, whose experiments with barrel aging and blending the native Garganega grape with Chardonnay produced savory wines with rich mouthfeel and complex flavors of nuts and herbs ($15-$30, depending on vineyard designations).

My palate prefers the lighter, clean complexity of Tamellini and Gini, in their non-vineyard designate styles ($12-$15).

Vernaccia di San Gimignano (vair-NAH-chia di san jim-in-YAH-no) is a taste of history, first recorded in 1276. The grape name stems from "vernacular" or indigenous, so any indigenous grape throughout Italy may bear the Vernaccia name. The finest is grown in San Gimignano, the famous towered Tuscan city in central Italy. In 1966, to save it from extinction, Italy awarded Vernaccia di San Gimignano official recognition as the first ever Denominazione di Origine Controllatta. One producer Teruzzi & Puthod has carried the flag, producing a light yet distinctive dry-ish wine with appealing bitter almond flavors ($12).

Fiano has grown along the volcanic hillsides of southern Italy for more than 2,000 years. The grapes' tendency to oxidation coupled with high sugar content limited production to sweet-ish sparkling wines, admired by locals but difficult to market nationally or internationally. Years of experiments, in particular by Campania producer Mastroberardino ($19), aided by modern equipment, have been rewarded with dry, fresh elegant wines with aspects of toasted hazelnuts and honey. Another producer to seek out in wine shops or online is Masseria Altemura ($12-$17.)

With little to no oak, low alcohol and flavors light on fruit but rich in herbs and nuts, these Italian whites make for an elegant aperitivo and unique complement to dishes incorporating nuts (sole almandine) and springtime peas and asparagus.

Of course, each is especially suited to regional recipes such as the Piemontese specialty gnocchi alla fontina, Veneto's risi e bisi (rice and peas) and, from the south, fritto misto (fried seafood), zuppa di pesce (seafood stew) and melanzane ripiene (eggplant stuffed with anchovies, capers and olives).

© 2008

Ross choice

Merlot Napa Valley

2005

Clos du Val

Napa Valley, Calif.

• Suggested retail and availability: $26 at wine and spirit shops

Since 1972, Clos du Val (meaning "little vineyard in the valley") has acquired land in Napa's finest sub-regions to create balanced, complex wines, this yummy Merlot no exception. With firm (not abrasive) tannin and expressive (not overblown) fruit, this Merlot combines Bordeaux-like elegance with California's appeal. Serve as a rich cocktail and complement to rich poultry and red meats.