Olive oil the secret ingredient in citrus layer cake

Olive oil seldom registers a blip on my dessert ingredient radar. Sure, I've stirred this continental classic into a few pizza or savory bread dough, but only a scant few sweet recipes include this powerful ingredient.

Sometime ago I experimented with a lemon-infused olive oil I picked up at the grocery store, replacing some of the butter in standard cake recipe. While the substitution did lend softness to the finished texture, my taste buds couldn't get beyond the olive taste.

With all the health benefits that olive oil offers, I didn't want to brush this ingredient off completely, but I needed to understand more about this diverse ingredient. So I turned to Rick Petrocelly, owner of the Olive Tap, and attended a tasting at his Long Grove store.

Sure, most cooks have heard about extra virgin olive oil, but few of us (myself included) understand how complex and flavorful high-quality (expensive) oil can be.

When I arrived at Olive Tap the aromas intoxicated me; I became overwhelmed by the wide variety of oils and balsamic vinegars available and by Petrocelly's knowledge.

To be labeled EVOO, the oil must come from the first pressing of fresh olives and meet other criteria, Petrocelly explained. Producers are required to use the cold-press method, which means no heat, steam or water touches the olives. Evaluated by a panel of experts for taste and aroma, extracted olive oils qualifying as extra virgin must also be low in acidity.

I sampled a wide variety of EVOO ranging from savory and nutty selections to fresh, fruity and sweet oils. Much to my surprise the oils felt light on the palate without that usual olive oil flavor. What a difference high quality olive oil makes!

Just as I started plotting how these oils could infuse sensational flavor into desserts, Petrocelly offered a sweet plate, including a zesty citrus layer cake made with lemon-flavored extra virgin olive oil. These experienced taste buds did not detect the secret ingredient.

Armed with this new knowledge, I set out to create a simple, yet elegant loaf cake. Impressed by the fruity aroma and fresh taste of Olive Tap's lemon extra virgin olive oil, I decided to completely replace the butter in my standard pound cake recipe with this liquid fat.

In terms of food science, butter and oil are not equal fats. Butter contains dairy solids while oil offers 100 percent fat. So using only oil means the cake's structure will require a little boost. I settled on cake flour in lieu of stronger all-purpose, increasing the amount to strengthen the crumb.

To keep the finished cake from feeling greasy, I used a mayonnaise-making technique, slowly incorporating the olive oil into the eggs. Reducing the sour cream to ½ cup and skipping the vanilla extract allowed the batter to hold the juice of one lemon, about 2 tablespoons. Grated lemon zest completed the citrus profile.

While nothing can replace classic butter pound cake, this olive oil version makes a serious contender.

EVOO Lemon Pound Cake

1¾ cup cake flour, sifted after measuring

¾ cup sugar

¾ teaspoon baking powder

½ teaspoon baking soda

3 large eggs

½ cup lemon-flavored extra virgin olive oil (see note)

½ cup sour cream (light or regular variety)

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice (1 medium lemon)

Grated zest of 1 fresh lemon

Heat oven to 350 degrees. Lightly grease bottom and sides of 9-by-5-inch loaf pan.

In medium bowl, whisk together cake flour, sugar, baking powder and soda. Set aside.

In large mixing bowl, beat eggs on medium speed until light and smooth. Reduce speed to low and slowly pour in olive oil, continuously beating mixture. Scrape bowl well. Stir in sour cream, lemon juice and zest.

Add half the flour mixture and beat on low speed until combined. Scrape bowl well. Add remaining flour and beat on medium speed 1 minute until smooth. Scrape bowl well.

Spoon batter into pan and bake 50-55 minutes until tester inserted at center comes out clean. Cool 30 minutes in pan before removing to rack.

Keeps moist 3 days at room temperature, tightly wrapped.

Serves 10.

Baker's hint: Look for high quality extra virgin olive oil at specialty stores or online gourmet retailers.

Nutrition values per serving: 271 calories, 15 g fat (3 g saturated fat), 31 g carbohydrates, trace amount fiber, 4 g protein, 70 mg cholesterol, 125 mg sodium.