Say 'Opa!'
There's a scene in "My Big Fat Greek Wedding" in which the groom-to-be claims he's vegetarian -- only to be viewed with confusion and scorn by one of the 200 aunts of the bride, who promptly declares, "We'll get you lamb, then."
You can find vegetarian fare in Greek cuisine -- especially during the Greek Orthodox Lent leading up to the April 27 Easter celebration. But the cuisine also is known for its simple, flavorful meat dishes. Both are a great excuse to go Greek for a day.
The scene
Just opened when we stopped by, Odyssey has been transformed from what once was Jonathan's Steakhouse into an authentic but very modern Greek taverna.
Exposed wooden beams support low ceilings in a large dining area adjacent to a curtained-off private party room, all bathed in the traditional white and light blue. The main room is decorated with touches of the classical (tipped vases known as hydria) as well as the more modern (petite wall tiles reflecting a small waterfall).
The food
There really is no such thing as "light" Greek food. Sure, there's the Greek salad or blue-point oysters or even scallops. But if you venture out for a truly Greek meal, you'll at least want to try the saganaki cheese, the lamb and some baklava. The saganaki is flambéed, of course, and the spectacle never gets old. Pouring butter on and broiling a piece of yellow sheep's cheese so that it comes to the table neither hard nor a melted mess is no easy feat, so we couldn't be terribly disappointed when the crispy casing on ours came apart a little bit.
Tzatziki salad, a typical meze that goes perfectly with ouzo, came infused with garlic, cucumber and lemon but was a touch too watery, making it a difficult dipping sauce for the fresh bread.
Some of the specials on the board included a shrimp shish-kabob, with charbroiled shrimp and fresh vegetables, as well as a tilapia almondine, sautéed and topped with almonds in a white wine lemon sauce. The tilapia was fresh but a bit bland, and it curiously came out surrounded not by the advertised rice and veggies, but by half a roasted potato and green beans in an olive oil-heavy tomato-based sauce, the same side that came -- much more appropriately -- with the braised lamb. The lamb shank was perfectly tender, sliding off the bone just as it should with the help of an obliging fork, and it was very well complemented by the bouquet of spices sprinkled in the red sauce.
The baklava had a nice touch of cinnamon and detectable honey flavor, a nice change from the sugary versions that are more common.
The experience
Although the restaurant is brand new in its current incarnation, this building has existed as a restaurant for many years. The owners -- the Pashos family -- have made considerable alterations to their previous steakhouse effort and lightened it up substantially. Considering the family's Greek heritage, an authentic cuisine such as this is closer to their hearts.
Odyssey
667 W. Roosevelt Road, Lombard (630) 627-3300
Cuisine: Authentic Greek
Setting: Family style; for just about anyone
Price range: Appetizers: $4-$8; main course: $12-$16; dessert: $4-$6
Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday; 12 p.m. to 11 p.m. Saturday; 12 p.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday