If you like Italian, you'll like Regina's in West Dundee

Imagine an Italian piazza with a quaint ristorante on Via Trent Uno. Where cozy dining areas with gleaming wood paneling and bright white tablecloths await diners. Where family portraits grace the walls, two guitarists strum the classics unobtrusively, and waiters and patrons converse like a big Italian family. This inviting atmosphere, along with a full bar and a fine selection of authentic Italian dishes, can be found at Regina's in West Dundee. The restaurant, sister to Regina's Ristorante in downtown Arlington Heights, is operated by Chef Campanella's daughter, Annette, and her husband Curt Kittel.

A little menu roaming brings you to a gem of an appetizer, Funghi al Bruschetta. Not your typical bruschetta, wild mushrooms are sauteed with garlic, plum tomatoes and basil and served warm in a bowl accompanied by toasted crostini. The dish masterfully captures the flavors of Italy, and I could quite happily make a meal out of it. The generous portion could easily serve three, but you'll need more crostini for scooping.

If you're an artichoke fan, the Carchofi Infornati, baby artichokes baked in seasoned breading, sounds enticing but fails to deliver. The dish was overly breaded, underbaked and bland.

Worth perusing is the carefully developed wine list. According to owner Philip Campanella, "Selections have been procured from all around the world." If you love the reds as I do, you'll find many fine labels to choose from as heavy emphasis is placed on red grapes. I opted for the Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva. In addition to the Italian reds, other varietals, from Cabernet to Zinfandel, are available. Twenty red and 10 white wines can be ordered by the glass. All wines are accompanied by a mouth-watering description and have been chosen for their ability to pair well with menu items. If you so desire, reserve and sparkling wine lists are also available.

Salad lovers have limited options: caprese, Caesar or house salad. The insalata caprese has promise when tomatoes are in season, but the syrupy balsamic vinegar can't save winter's pale, tasteless tomatoes. Instead, opt for the fresh soup of the day. I passed up the minestrone for creamy tomato with nice gorgonzola crumbles.

How's your memory? After hearing the numerous well-described daily specials, I questioned mine. Oh, for a printed sheet detailing specials! The swordfish on a bed of sautéed spinach served with fried polenta caught my attention, though, and proved to be a good choice. This fish, which can easily end up dry, was moist and flavorful and the fried polenta crisp tender.

You can't eat at an Italian restaurant without having pasta, and at Regina's you'll find all of the classics, including ravioli, manicotti, lasagna, fettuccini and linguini. The fettuccini Regina, a signature dish made with a sautéed mushroom and garlic cream sauce, met the pasta challenge with its rich, developed sauce and perfectly cooked fettucini. The portion was very large, though, so consider sharing the dish, even though you'll have to pay a $4.95 splitting charge.

If you're not up for pasta, Regina's offers six traditional Italian chicken dishes: vesuvio, marsala, piccante, parmigiana and tetrazzini. Seafood entrees, primarily shellfish, also are available. Try the zuppa di pesce -- sauteed clams, mussels, shrimp, calamari and fish of the day in a lightly spiced marinara sauce served over linguini.

Veal dishes dominate the meat section of the menu. The house specialty is veal medallions sautéed with zucchini, onion and tomato in a light mascarpone cream sauce. If you must have steak, try the Bistecca al Forno, a 10-ounce, center-cut filet served with melted Asiago cheese and topped with garlic and white wine roasted potatoes.

Dessert offerings are typical for an Italian restaurant. The tiramisu, prepared fresh upon order, was disappointing. The ladyfingers were drowning in espresso-flavored drink, making them soggy, and smothered by a bit too much mascarpone cream. If you still have room and want the perfect sweet treat, the tartuffo, a chocolate and hazelnut gelato rolled in chocolate and hazelnut chips and served on a bed of mascarpone cream sauce, was delightful. I would have loved a Vin Santo and a biscotti to dunk.

The service at Regina's was attentive and courteous, although I was somewhat distracted by the piercings of my trendy server. Trust the wait staff to knowledgeably answer your questions and make enthusiastic menu suggestions.

• Restaurant reviews are intended to provide a detailed look at distinctive suburban restaurants. Reviews are based on anonymous visits. Our aim is to describe the overall dining experience while guiding the reader toward the menu's strengths. The Daily Herald does not publish reviews of restaurants it cannot recommend.

Regina's Via Trent Uno

629 S. Eighth St., West Dundee, (847) 836-0078; www.reginas.net

Cuisine: Classic Italian

Setting: Cozy dining room with Italian market feel complete with awnings, family portraits and an Italian marketplace mural

Entrée prices: $10 to $26 (includes house salad or soup)

Hours: Lunch 11:30 to 2:30 p.m. Tuesday through Friday; dinner 4 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday

Accepts: Reservations, major credit cards

Also: Carry out, catering and private parties