Night and day, art is the one

Abandoned warehouses and empty storefronts are magnets for rehabbers, and in their wake for studios and galleries. Such is the case in Milwaukee, where, in 1984, the National Register of Historic Places accepted 70 buildings spanning about 10 square blocks as the Historic Third Ward District.

Today, it is a vibrant neighborhood with residents and commercial business operators occupying those rehabbed warehouses and converted lofts. "The Ward," as it is known, also is home to Milwaukee's highest concentration of art galleries.

Most buildings are massive brick structures built up to the sidewalk. Neoclassical styles dominate and ornamentation ranges from Victorian gothic and Sullivanesque to art deco, featuring terra cotta, metal and stone construction. The Broadway Theatre Center houses the prestigious Skylight Opera Theatre, Theatre X and the Milwaukee Chamber Theatre. Centerpiece of this complex is a 385-seat, 17th-century baroque-style theater.

The neighborhood attracts photographers, graphic artists, advertising agencies, dance companies and theater groups. Showcasing their work is Gallery Night & Day, a two-day premier art event, held quarterly, that attracts more than 10,000 art patrons at a time. The next event is scheduled for April 18 and 19.

Take advantage of complimentary parking and a free bus service that takes gallery-hoppers from Historic Third Ward to East Town (another major participant, along with the Milwaukee Art Museum). With galleries and museums, there are more than 50 venues throughout the downtown area. Meanwhile, you'll find fine dining and plenty of wine to sip and music to listen to (including excellent jazz). Many gallery-goers find the event a perfect opportunity for gift shopping.

In 1870, when the Historic Third Ward was on its way to becoming a booming wholesale and manufacturing district, George Watts, an 18-year-old immigrant, arrived from Bristol, England. Legend has it he carried in his pockets a mere 36 cents and hired on as a stock boy for china and glass merchants. In time, he owned the business and was joined by his son, Howard, in the shop that became George Watts & Son.

The store flourished, as did the second-floor tearoom opened by the Cook sisters. (Howard urged them to locate there because he enjoyed their made-from-scratch food.) Both enterprises are thriving.

Downstairs is a magnificent array of fine china, crystal and giftware at prices ranging from $5 (for a small candleholder) to $50,000 (for a Steuben vase from Corning). Don't miss the basement "close-out room" for potential bargains.

This awesome display continues upstairs, where you'll also find the time-warp tearoom. With paisley-pattern green drapes, mahogany furniture and views of the Cathedral Square district (near the Pfister hotel), it's a genteel spot for lunch or afternoon tea. Enjoy sandwiches made with freshly baked whole-wheat bread and sample the legendary Sunshine Cake, a three-layer sponge cake with a rich French custard filling.

Hinterland, opened last fall in Historic Third Ward, is one of Milwaukee's newest and trendiest eateries. This hip, upscale gastropub serves Kobe beef, fresh seafood and wild game -- all accompanied by handcrafted beers, wine from an extensive list or trendy cocktails (such as a vodka-based "Pomegranate Push"). Try award-winning pale ale, but don't be surprised when stout, aged in bourbon barrels, arrives in a snifter.

Starters might include raw Kumamoto oysters, potato-leek soup or seared veal sweetbreads. Move on to wood-fire-grilled elk or Kobe beef tenderloin or to porcini-dusted salmon. Hinterland occupies a former biscuit factory with beautifully restored Cream City brick and exposed timber.

For a late-night glass of bubbly, stop at Cuvee, which also debuted last fall. It stays open until 2:30 a.m. on weekends and offers more than 100 varieties of sparkling wine.

Interested in shopping for art and crafts direct from villages in Nepal and Mongolia? How about browsing the work of 50 jewelry makers or the creations of talented textile designers? On Gallery Night & Day head for:

• David Barnett Gallery, www.davidbarnettgallery.com. Showcases more than 6,000 artworks in historic Button Mansion. Paintings, prints, vintage posters, art glass, mixed media and sculptures. From Picasso to Rembrandt, from old masters to emerging Wisconsin artists.

• DeLind Art Gallery, www.delindgallery.com. Changing collection of artworks from regional and internationally known artists. Paintings, sculpture, drawings, original graphics and classic and antique posters. From Matisse, Cezanne and Rembrandt to the widely popular "Beasties" by Dennis Pearson.

• Tory Folliard Gallery, www.toryfolliard.com. Focuses on landscape, still life and figurative art -- showcasing nationally known painters, sculptors and photographers.

• Artasia Gallery & Museum, www.artasiagallery.com. Owners travel to China, Tibet, Nepal, Mongolia and Southeast Asia to buy ethnic and religious art, artifacts, carvings, accents, furniture and antiques.

• Third Ward Jewelry Gallery, www.milwaukeeartdealers.org. Showcases the work of more than 50 jewelry artists. All pieces are handmade; many are one of a kind.

• Grotta & Co., www.grottaco.com. Creates exciting textiles with design, print and dyes; works with silks, linens and cottons. Check out pillow and scarf collections.

• Katie Gingrass Gallery, www.gingrassgallery.com. Contemporary art and fine craft gallery exhibits lithographs, paintings and pastels, as well as teapots and other crafts.

• Cranston, www.cranstonaccents.com. Home accents, furniture and accessories for everyday living, entertaining and special occasions -- for bed, bath, dining, kitchen, lifestyle and gift-giving.

• Lela, www.lelaboutique.com. Fashion boutique houses vintage and new designer collections (including exclusive collections from Milwaukee designer Shanel Regier).

If you go

Information: Milwaukee Convention & Visitors Bureau, (800) 554-1448, www.visitmilwaukee.org; Wisconsin Department of Tourism, (800) 432-8747, www.travelwisconsin.com.

Mileage: Milwaukee is about 95 miles north of Chicago.

MikeMichaelson is a travelwriter based in Chicago andthe author of the guidebook"Chicago's Best-Kept Secrets."