M.T. Barrels: Prohibition meets microbrew
Ironic, isn't it?
More than 125 years ago during Prohibition, M.T. Barrels was a drug store with a speakeasy in the basement, and smoking was allowed anywhere. Today, smoking indoors is prohibited, and the basement of this 21st century restaurant houses beer brewing equipment.
I can't help but imagine the once-clandestine speakeasy being replaced by an equally illegal smoking room, guarded by a jittery fellow behind a wood door with a sliding peep hole.
"Knock knock knock, Phillip Morris sent me."
But the owners of this charming, hospitable restaurant and brewery assure me no such behavior is tolerated. Indeed, the walk-in humidor in the third-floor lounge sells upscale cigars, but you'll have to step outside to light up, thank you.
Fortunately, food and beverages, particularly handcrafted beers, are still legal and competently prepared at this 6-month-old, family-owned business.
The vintage brick, three-story space -- just down the block from Emmett's Tavern & Brewing Company -- was built by Martin T. Barrows in 1879 as a hardware store. You can still see his name painted on the exterior, the inspiration for the restaurant's clever new name. Get it?
Last year Frank and Melissa Simal of West Dundee bought it after Gino's East shut down. Former owner of an electrical business and a member of the American Brewers Guild, Frank Simal did much of the renovation himself, gutting the interior and starting over.
Now the focal point of the interior is the gleaming brewing equipment rising from the basement through the first-floor bar and lounge. Flanking either side of the lounge are stairways leading to second-floor dining. The third floor is accessible by stairs or elevator.
The decor is simple but warm, mostly yards of wooden floors and paneling with some exposed brick and vintage framed photographs, some of West Dundee, others from the Prohibition era.
Outside, at second-floor level, a picturesque patio overlooks the Fox River. It could be the hot spot come spring for outdoor consumption of beer and bar food.
Chef Mike Michalski, formerly with Levy Restaurants, has sketched out a classic American menu ranging from meatloaf with mashed potatoes, gravy and green beans to duck with red cherry glaze, steaks, seafood and hearty sandwiches.
You probably won't need appetizers, because dinners come with sides, but check them out anyway.
Plump, pancetta-wrapped shrimp served with a whole-grain mustard beurre blanc make a fine, if pricey, introduction to your meal at $12.95. The capers and scallions in the butter sauce add lively zing and bite.
At the other end of the pay scale are fried green tomatoes with marinara sauce. These tangy disks are beautifully browned and crisp, and their sauce has slow-simmered depth.
You'll find standard starters, too, like oysters, mussels, nachos and buffalo chicken wings. But check out the unusual Melrose pepper stuffed with Italian sausage; it's served on fresh tomato basil sauce.
Hearty, house-made soups come with entrees. The chicken fajita is my favorite. Plentiful cubes of chicken breast bathe in an incendiary broth. Minestrone is lighter but packed with vegetables.
The kitchen delivers solid results with entrees, particularly the barbecued ribs. These are smoky, meaty babybacks lightly painted with a well-balanced sauce, though not as tangy as I prefer.
The 8-ounce filet mignon covers all the bases -- it is tender, perfectly seared to medium-rare and juicy.
Both entrees came with big chunks of tender, yellow squash, zucchini and carrot slices plus red-skinned smashed potatoes. The latter taste far better than they look. Despite their unappetizing tan color they are buttery and creamy, with interesting texture from the peel.
Of the half-dozen house-brewed beers, the mahogany-colored porter stands up best to either of these bold-flavored meals.
If you prefer a sandwich, look for the burgers and barbecued pulled pork or grilled chicken and spinach panini.
Seafood options include seared Alaskan halibut with balsamic white bean and tomato relish and peppercorn crusted ahi tuna with ginger, soy and wasabi cream, served with jasmine rice and house vegetables.
Rack of lamb and a 22-ounce rib-eye add heft to the meatiest portion of the menu.
Pastry chef Emily Warner oversees a short but well-chosen dessert menu. You won't regret the chocolate raspberry torte. It's more like Boston cream pie, but what's in a name?
Warner tops chocolate cake with a bountiful layer of fluffy, rich crème anglaise and caps it with chocolate ganache. Raspberry sauce pools to one side. This is plenty for two.
Our server was a friendly young man, efficient and accommodating, particularly when we asked him to allow plenty of time between courses.
M.T. Barrels
98 W. Main St.(Route 72), West Dundee
(847) 426-4030
Cuisine: American
Setting: Brewpub
Price range: Appetizers, $5.95 to $12.95; soups and salads, $2.95 to $9.95; entrees, $10.95 to $36.95; desserts, $5.95 to $6.95.
Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Mon. to Thurs.; 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Fri. and Sat. Appetizers available until 10 p.m. weekdays, 11 p.m. weekends.
Accepts: Major credit cards.
Other: Live entertainment Wed. and Sat nights; free valet parking Fri. and Sat. nights.