How to replace a bad outlet

If you have a bad outlet to replace or maybe you just want to upgrade to a newer style or color, here are the basic instructions for taking care of this chore.

If you are the least bit worried about your skills, please call a qualified electrician to do the work. We can't afford to lose you!

The most important thing is that you turn the power off to the whole circuit at the breaker box or service panel. You can plug a radio into the outlet to see if, when the circuit breaker is turned off, the radio also will shut off. But it's best to use an electrical tester to confirm the current has been shut off.

With the household electrical power off, it is safe to remove the screws holding the plate on. The electrical parts are held in the box by a couple of screws. Remove these too. Gently pull the receptacle away from the box to access the wiring. Note the location and color of each wire before unhooking it. Use a digital camera to photograph the hookups, if you like. If the wires are attached by screws, loosen the screws and pull the wires off. Some wires will be inserted into the box. Most will allow you to push a button with a screw driver to remove the wires. Depending upon where the receptacle is in the circuit will dictate how many wires are attached. Be sure you hook your new receptacle up the same way as the one you are replacing, unless you are directed to do so differently in the new instructions.

If the old wires are in bad shape and you have enough wire to work with, you can cut off the ends and strip the insulation off with a wire stripper.

If you are using a receptacle with screw attachments, strip the wire, then coil the stripped end into a hook and place it on the screw so that as you turn the screw to tighten it, the wire will tighten around the screw.

You want to make your connections in a way that leaves you with a minimum of exposed wire off the screw or other type of connections.

If you are required to use wire nuts on any of your connections, make sure they are sound, and wrap them with electrical tape when you are finished.

Test your receptacle and then replace the cover. This is how to do a basic replacement. Take precautions whenever working with electricity, and if you are not confident in your work, ask a pro for some help.

Post-hole digger

Digging post holes is made easier by the use of a post-hole digger. This handy tool digs down and lifts the dirt out all in one step. But one way to improve even this handy gadget is to start at the bottom and make marks in 1-foot increments all the way up the handle. You can use paint or some of other type of permanent marker. This way, when the tool is down in the hole, you will be able to measure the depth of the hole just by looking at the marks on the handles to see how much farther you have to go. Hey, even saving one step in this fun chore can be well worth it!

Magnetic toolbelt

Some toolbelts have a heavy-duty magnet incorporated right into the belt to hold a metal tape. Now, that's handy! But you can add one if your toolbelt doesn't have this modern convenience. Just use epoxy or some other very strong glue to attach a heavy-duty magnet right to the toolbelt. Now you can store your metal tape right there, and it will be easy to retrieve when you are working. These magnets also are very handy for grabbing hardware and small hand tools, so add a second one while you are at it.

Super hints

• To keep clean when mixing compounds together, pour both parts of a two-part epoxy into a plastic bag, and mix them together. Then just snip off the end of the bag and squeeze the adhesive out. It creates much less mess this way.

• Instead of filling up a bucket or drawer with all of your loose hardware, stuff a clean plastic bag with these items. You can easily see if what you are looking for is in the bag and where it is. It's easier than going through a drawer full of miscellaneous hardware.

• I'm a real weenie when it comes to carrying heavy loads. I'm just not very strong, and I can't manage large items. I have used my lawnmower as a tote on several occasions. I can stack things on it and roll them to the proper locations. I'm sure you aren't supposed to apply too much weight, but a bag of mulch or a rock will certainly fit, and it's much easier than trying to carry it with my hands.

Q. I have noticed some large, white stains on my basement floor. We did have a small water problem, but that was taken care of as far as I can tell. What can I remove the stain with?

B.R.

A. The white stain is most likely mineral deposits leftover from the leak. See if you can remove it by scrubbing with a mixture of vinegar and water. That should dissolve the mineral deposits. Follow up with soap and water, and then give it plenty of time to dry.

Q. We have the typical metal porch railing and columns. They need to be painted because the old finish is dull and chalky-looking. What do I need to do in order to make it look nice again?

T.J.

A. Most metal paint will start to "chalk" as it ages. Use trisodium phosphate to clean the surfaces. Then use a rust-preventive primer to prepare the clean surface for a new coat of paint that's made for metal.

Q. Our back entry is a mudroom of sorts, and it has a plain concrete floor. The problem is that the floor is dusty and puts out a big mess all the time. I clean it, and it always comes back. Is there some way to seal it, or something like that?

M.D.

A. Clean the surface again and make sure to get all of the dust up off the floor. Then apply a concrete sealer on the surface. This will seal the surface and prevent the dust. It also will prevent stains and some moisture problems.

Reader tips

• When we started our basement project, I was ready to finish the walls in less than a week. Unfortunately, I broke my ankle and had to stop in the middle of the job. My brother told me about a good way to keep the mud from going bad while my ankle healed. I cleaned off the lid of the large, 5-gallon bucket, then poured enough water into it to cover the top of the drywall compound. I was ready to get back to work after about a week. I just poured off the water, and the drywall compound was still ready to use.

M.J.

• I had to ask my plumber what he was doing when I saw him punch a tube of silicon caulk into a wax toilet ring. Well, he explained that by sticking the tip of the opened tube into the wax ring, it would seal up the end and prevent the caulk from hardening. When you are ready to use it again, the wax comes right out the end with the caulk. Just discard the first part with the wax in it, and you are ready to go.

V.W.

• Our front entry door is a very heavy-duty steel door. I really wanted to hang a wreath on the door but didn't want to drill a hole into the door. I found a very strong magnet, attached the wreath to that and hung the magnet on the door. It stays there just fine and doesn't slide down.

M.R.

• I have a great tip for a quick fix of small wall holes. I own a duplex and have renters in and out all the time, so between tenants, I have to patch small holes from hanging pictures. I mix the patching compound with some wall paint and just put a dab on/in each tiny hole. The paint matches the walls, so you don't see the patch at all -- and it's a one-step fix.

R.B.

• I created a super small caulking tube for small jobs. I used a very large syringe, without a needle on the end, as the dispenser. I squirted some caulk into the syringe and applied pressure with the plunger to squeeze the caulk out. It was much easier to use than the large caulking gun, and the bead was small enough that I didn't have to smooth it too much, either.

R.T.

Shop talk

• Concrete isn't that hard to patch, but restoring certain items, like architectural parts of your home, can be. AboCrete is an epoxy patching and resurfacing cement made just for concrete surfaces. It fills large cracks and replaces missing sections on concrete, marble, granite and other stone surfaces. It bonds broken sections together and anchors posts and railings. It can be used in heavy-traffic areas like floors, stairs and driveways and is actually stronger than bolts. It can be applied in any thickness and is shrink-free. You can even color it with pigments or concrete powder, and it sets up quickly in one to six hours. To learn more or to find a dealer in your area, visit online at www.abatron.com. The company also makes repair epoxies for wood and other surfaces.

• Red Devil makes a lot of patching compounds for walls and other surfaces, so it makes sense that it would come out with the SandFast Peel, Stick and Sand System. The base has a patented composite film/foam layer, which is the key to its quick and easy system. Assorted sandpapers from 80 grit to 220 grit are made to stick to the base, eliminating the need for clips and other holding attachments. The paper won't slip or tear, even on corners and edges. A variety of bases are available, including a detail sander, hand sander, palm sander and pole sander. Most come with a starter supply of paper, but replacements are readily available. It's so easy to use that you can sand just about anything. Look for it at your hardware or paint store, or your local home center. To learn more about the system, visit its Web site at www.reddevil.com.

© 2008, Cowles Syndicate Inc.