The many faces of chili

Chili can be made 1,000 different ways, using funky ingredients like catfish, dark chocolate, eggplant, Fritos and goat cheese.

It also can be cooked up Texas style, Cincinnati style or vegetarian friendly. It can be so meaty that you eat it with a fork, or so soupy that it requires a spoon.

But the type of chili that will be the biggest hit at Super Bowl parties this Sunday is not fancy or styled. It's just basic, hearty, beef-and-beans chili with just the right amount of spices and optional toppings of shredded cheddar cheese, chopped white onions, sour cream or oyster crackers.

Anything else is just showing off.

"The real die-hard chili connoisseurs, the ones who participate in the chili cook-offs, they subscribe to the belief that the simplest chili is the best chili," said Stephanie Anderson, author of the restaurant recipe book "Killer Chili."

More chili Firefighters' chili cookoff Firefighters make some of the best chili you'll ever taste. That's why Whole Foods Market in Palatine is teaming up with six local fire departments for a chili cook-off from noon to 3 p.m. Saturday.Customers will have an opportunity to sample each of the various chilis and vote for their favorite. The winning fire department will receive a $250 donation to its fire prevention education fund.Firefighters from Hoffman Estates, Huntley, Lake Zurich, Mount Prospect, Palatine and Villa Park are slated to participate.Whole Foods Market is located at 1331 N. Rand Road, Palatine. For details, call (847) 776-8080.

While researching the book, Anderson found that chili varies by region: it was spicier in the Southwest, meatier in the Midwest, sweeter in Cincinnati, and more creative on the East and West coasts.

She saw chili served everywhere from fast-food drive-through to fancy restaurants, with spice levels ranging from very mild to eye-watering-"whoa!" hot.

Since most recipes are the same basic ingredients but with slight variation on the spices, chili's taste varies widely. When chili veers off course is when unusual ingredients are thrown in, such as broccoli or sticks of butter.

"I was really surprised at how versatile chili is. I ran into people who made catfish chili, lobster chili ... it comes to the point where, at what point are we abandoning the notion of chili and getting into something else altogether?" she said.

Mary Ellen Hope, manager of Bishop's Famous Chili in Westmont, agrees that "real" chili consists of just meat, beans and spices. Bishop's chili, which she describes as "Chicago style," includes beef, pork and beans.

"It's more about what you grew up with, and that comfort food feeling," said Hope, the great-granddaughter of restaurant founder "Grandma Bishop."

Football and chili

Football and chili go hand in hand, which is why fall and winter months are peak chili season.

Bishop's had the best/busiest weekend of its 58-year history during Super Bowl 2007 that pitted our own Bears against the Indianapolis Colts. Hope said the restaurant sold 1,000 bowls that day -- the amount they normally sell in a week.

Even in the summer, Hope said chili is popular -- as chili cook-offs seem to be growing in popularity.

"Everyone has their own recipe," she said.

Chili aficionados feel passionately about the right way to prepare and serve chili. Should it be made with beans or without? With tomatoes or without? Poured over elbow macaroni or plain? Most chili fans have strong feelings about such matters.

Legend has it that the late author H. Allen Smith, who wrote an article in 1967 called "Nobody Knows More About Chili Than I Do," once got into a heated argument with his brother over the proper way to make chili -- and the two didn't speak for a year after that.

"People take chili very seriously," Anderson said. "Very seriously."

Chili history

Chili's history is a matter of debate, according to the International Chili Society. It's believed chili gained popularity in the 1800s, when cattle-driving cowboys would stop along the trail for "a bowl of red." The dish consisted of whatever game was available -- even if it was rattlesnake or rabbit. The meat was mixed in with wild oregano, garlic, onions and chile peppers.

Chile peppers are the key ingredient in chili recipes, and it's where chili derives its name. Red chile peppers and poblanos are said to be the mildest, where as habaneros and Scotch bonnets are among the hottest.

The century-old "chili con carne" recipes didn't contain beans. To this day, that continues to be the backbone of Texas-style chili: no beans or vegetables of any kind (and chili is the "official dish" of Texas).

Beans didn't come into the picture until the post-Depression era, possibly as a way to cut down on expensive meat ingredients.

Now that chili is a mainstream meal, people personalize their recipes and add secret ingredients ranging from cinnamon to dark lager beer.

Firefighters' chili

If there's one profession that knows chili (chefs excluded), it's firefighters.

Chili is a popular dish in most firehouses because it's hearty, easy to make, serves a lot of people, and if they're called to duty, the pot can stay on the stove until they get back. Leftovers can be easily reheated and eaten alone or used for chili dogs.

"You can also take the leftovers, mix it with Velveeta and make a dip out of it," says Rolling Meadows firefighter/paramedic Evan Dolinsky, who regularly makes chili at the firehouse.

Dolinsky also subscribes to the basic-is-best philosophy, and has no interest in haute-cuisine versions.

"I've had a couple of spoonfuls of the fancy stuff and I thought, eh, forget it," he said. "I like basic chili, heavy on the meat."

His recipe includes ground beef, stewed tomatoes, tomato paste to thicken it up, onion, green peppers and then his special ingredient -- brown sugar.

"It gives it a sweet aftertaste," he said.

At times, Dolinsky adds extra meat -- including steak and bacon -- or extra chili powder to give it a little more kick.

Arlington Heights firefighter/paramedic Chris Rymut makes his chili so hot that he has to have someone else taste-test it. He prepares chili on most football Sundays, and plans to make a batch for the Super Bowl.

His recipe includes ground beef or turkey, three to four cans of whole tomatoes, chicken stock, cumin -- and pasta on the side, in case anyone wants chili mac. His side dish is equally popular: fresh cornbread.

Since a few of his fellow firefighters are hunters, they tend to add interesting game, such as venison, antelope, elk loin or buffalo.

"No one can tell the difference," Rymut says. "It's usually gone. There aren't ever any leftovers."

Frito Pie with Chili, Fancy Cheeses and Texas Pico

4 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 red onion, chopped

1 tablespoon minced garlic

2 pounds ground beef, coarsely ground (see note)

1 cup red chili sauce

1 tablespoon chili powder

2 teaspoons dried oregano

2 teaspoons ground cumin

2 tomatoes, coarsely chopped

2 cups chicken stock

Kosher salt

1 bag (16 ounces) Fritos

2 cups pico de gallo (see note)

2 cups shredded caciotta or Monterey jack cheese

1 cup goat cheese, crumbled

2 cups cr#232;me fraiche or sour cream

Prepare the chili by heating the oil in a stew pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and saute until soft. Add the ground beef and cook until starting to brown, stirring as necessary. Add the red chili sauce, chili powder, oregano, cumin and tomatoes. Stir well to combine. Cook for 5 minutes, then lower the heat to a simmer and add the stock. Simmer the chili, uncovered, for 45-60 minutes. Stir occasionally to prevent sticking. Season with salt to taste.

Remove from heat and set aside until ready to assemble the Frito pie. If preparing ahead of time, place the chili in an airtight container and refrigerate until ready to use.

To assemble: Pile the Fritos into serving bowls. Top with the hot chili, pico and cheeses. Drizzle with cr#232;me fraiche.

Serves six to eight.

Cook's note: Try this with ground venison or diced boneless quail meat. For homemade pico de gallo try this Texas Pico version: Toss 6 sliced jalapenos, 1 diced red onion, 6 thinly sliced green tomatoes, 2 diced tomatoes and 2 bunches of cilantro (stemmed and minced). Drizzle with the juice of 2 limes and kosher salt. Toss again and let sit 15 minutes before serving.

Nutrition values per serving: 940 calories, 65 g fat (23 g saturated), 48 g carbohydrates, 3 g fiber, 38 g protein, 135 mg cholesterol, 1640 mg sodium.

"The Texas Cowboy Kitchen" by Grady Spears with June Naylor

(2007 Andrews McNeel, $19.95)

"I Can't Believe It's Not Bishop's Chili" Chili

1 pound boneless choice beef bottom roast, cut into #189;-inch dice

#189; pound lean boneless pork trimmings or boneless end-cut pork roost, cut into #189;-inch dice

2 tablespoons salt

1-2 ancho chiles

6 jopone chiles (small dried red peppers)

1 pound white onions, cut into small chunks

2 tablespoons garlic powder

2 tablespoons chili powder

5 pounds dried pinto beans, soaked overnight, rinsed and drained

In a large stockpot, combine the beef, pork and salt and add water to cover. Bring to a boil. Skim off any foam, cover and reduce the heat to a simmer. Cook for 2 hours.

Meanwhile, soak the ancho and jopone chiles in just enough warm water to cover them.

In a food processor, process the onions to a coarse pur#233;e. Empty into a bowl and add the garlic powder and chili powder. Drain the ancho and japone chiles, pur#233;e them in the food processor. and add to the onion mixture.

Drain the meat. Pur#233;e the pork in the food processor and add to the onion mixture. Return to the stockpot and stir. Add the rinsed beans, cover, and simmer for 2 hours, or until the beans are soft, stirring often to prevent burning. Water may be added if needed.

Pur#233;e the cooked beef in the food processor and add to the chili.

Let the chili cool to room temperature, then cover and refrigerate overnight. Reheat over low heat to serve.

Serves 10.

Editor's note: The people at Bishop's Chili warn that this is not their exact recipe, just a derivative of it. If you want the real thing, you have to visit the Westmont restaurant.

Nutrition values per serving: 920 calories, 7 g fat (2 g saturated), 151 g carbohydrates, 37 g fiber, 65 g protein, 45 mg cholesterol, 1460 mg sodium.

"Killer Chili," by Stephanie Anderson (2007 Chronicle Books, $16.95)

Wild Bill's World-Famous Indiana Red Chili with an Attitude

#188; cup canola oil

2#189; pounds coarse-ground chuck

1#188; pounds round steak, cut into #189;-inch dice

#188; cup hot chili powder

1#189; tablespoons ground cumin

#189; tablespoon paprika

#190; teaspoon garlic powder

#190; teaspoon black pepper

1#189; tablespoons salt

#189; tablespoon sugar

#190; cup beer

#190; cup water

3 cups tomato sauce

6 cups diced tomatoes

6 cups cooked dark red kidney beans with broth

1#188; cups diced onions

#216; cup diced green bell pepper

In a large, heavy pot, heat the oil over medium heat and brown the meat.

In a medium bowl, mix the spices, salt, sugar, beer and water together, then add to the pot with the meat. Reduce the heat to low and cook for 5 minutes. Add tomato sauce, tomatoes, beans and broth, onions and bell pepper; simmer 4 hours, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking.

Place the chili pot into an ice bath to cool. Cover and refrigerate overnight.

Before serving, remove the film of oil floating on top of the chili and discard. Reheat the chili and serve.

Serves 12.

Test kitchen note: This chili turned out thick and meaty, with very little sauce. We recommend serving it over elbow macaroni.

Nutrition values per serving: 490 calories, 23 g fat (7 g saturated), 31 g carbohydrates, 11 g fiber, 38 g protein, 90 mg cholesterol, 1010 mg sodium.

"Killer Chili" by Stephanie Anderson (2007 Chronicle, $16.95)

Mighty Fine Texas Chili

2 tablespoons olive oil

1#188; pounds lean coarsely ground beef

1 cup chopped onion (1 medium-size onion)

4 medium-size cloves garlic, minced

2 tablespoons chili powder

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons ground cumin

1 tablespoon dried oregano

1 quart (4 cups) beef broth

1 can (14#189; ounces) diced tomatoes, undrained

1 can (10 ounces) diced tomatoes with green chiles

About 3 cans (about 15 ounces each) pinto beans (optional; see note) rinsed and drained

Garnishes

Chopped red onion

Sour cream

Cilantro sprigs

Place a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 300 degrees.

Place the olive oil in a large, heavy soup pot over medium-high heat. Crumble in the ground beef, breaking it up with a wooden spoon. Cook, stirring, until the beef browns all over and is nearly cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring, 2 minutes longer. Reduce the heat to medium and stir in the chili powder, flour, cumin and oregano. Slowly add the beef broth, stirring until it is incorporated. Stir in the diced tomatoes and the tomatoes with chiles.

Cover the pot and carefully transfer it to the oven on the center rack. Bake the chili until it thickens nicely and has cooked down, about 2 hours.

Transfer the pot to the stove and carefully remove the lid, watching out for the escaping steam. Stir in as many cans of pinto beans as desired, then replace the lid. Cook the chili over low heat, stirring occasionally, until the beans heat through. Serve the chili garnished with red onion, sour cream, and cilantro sprigs.

Serves eight to 10.

Cook's notes: One can of pinto beans will give the chili a hint of beans. Two cans are for those who like beans in their chili. And three cans of pinto beans are for those who must have chili with beans.

You can make a double batch of the chili in a very large pot. Cooked on top of the stove, it will take 3 to 4 hours; stir the chili occasionally.

If you are going to be out of the house for longer than two hours, this chili will cook down and taste delicious when baked for about 3 hours at 250 degrees. And, if you're pressed for time, you can cook the chili at a simmer on top of the stove, but be careful to stir it often. Cooked that way, the chili should he ready in 1#189; hours.

Test kitchen note: This chili is a little soupier than most chilis, so if you prefer a heartier version, go easy on the broth and add a touch more flour.

"What Can I Bring? Cookbook" by Anne Byrn (2007 Workman Publishing $14.95)