Bean cuisine
For many of us, coffee has become so much more than that caffeinated beverage we need to drag us out of bed in the morning. It's an indulgence -- a full sensory experience.
We have become coffee connoisseurs favoring specialty coffee made from well-roasted beans and we conduct business, socialize and just relax over a good cup.
With coffee consumption at more than 7 billion cups nationally, according to Bonnie Riggs, industry analyst at Rosemont-based NPD Group, consumers looking for new ways to enjoy the beverage are finding it works as well on the plate as it does in the cup.
Yet consuming coffee as a food is not new. Around 1000 A.D., the Galla tribe in Ethiopia, where coffee grew naturally, wrapped coffee beans in animal fat and ate them for energy. Fast forward a few eons and we find chocolate-coated beans for snacking, espresso-infused pastries, and meats spiced with bean-flecked rubs. Chefs use coffee as a culinary ingredient, whether ground or brewed, to enhance and complement a wide variety of other flavors.
"Coffee is an old ingredient that has become an integral part of our lives as a drink and as a flavoring. To imagine any new food trend without coffee taking part is almost impossible," says Susannah Blake, author of "Coffee Indulgences" (2007 Ryland, Peters & Small, $12.95).
She cites the bean's complexity as its culinary strength. While wine contains about 150 different flavor compounds, coffee has around 900.
"The great thing about coffee is that it can be subtle or it can be strong depending on the flavors you use it with," Blake says. "It can offer an elusive, barely there hint in a creamy dessert, a contrasting taste with other strong flavors or it can stand alone, powerful and proud."
Experts note that coffee can add depth to recipes without being overpowering. "If you use coffee judiciously, savory dishes won't taste like coffee at all," adds Kate Heyhoe, executive editor of Global Gourmet and author of "Great Bar Food at Home" (2007 Wiley, $17.95). "They will retain the unique, robust depth of flavor that characterizes coffee along with pungent, roasted undertones and hints of acidity."
Versatile bean
In the savory arena, it is the roasted, nutty flavors in coffee that are important, often described as adding an earthiness to the dish.
What savory ingredients taste best cooked with coffee? Powerful foods, according to Heyhoe, like beef, lamb, pork, game, tomato sauces, meaty mushrooms and strong flours like rye, stone-ground whole wheat and buckwheat. Adding coffee to sauces and stews highlights the meat flavor.
Coffee, ground very finely, can also be mixed with spices and herbs to make a rub as in Heyhoe's Coffee Spice-Rub Grind. The acidity from the coffee can help tenderize tough cuts of meat, breaking down some of the firm connective tissues.
In the sweet kitchen, many ingredients pair well with coffee including nuts; sweet spices such as vanilla, ginger, cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves; and sweet fruits like oranges, raisins and apricots. Of course, there's no better combination than coffee and chocolate. The slightly bitter notes and caramelized qualities found in coffee create a delicious contrast with sweet, creamy mixtures.
Heyhoe believes that ingredients in desserts are "designed to promote the coffee taste and let the full coffee flavor shine through."
The key here is balance. In Blake's Coffee and Cinnamon Rolls, the coffee notes mellow the buttery sweetness.
Selection, storage
When adding coffee to recipes, Jeff Dreyfuss, owner of Metropolis Coffee Company in Chicago, says simply consider light versus dark roast. "You will not be able to pick up on varietal differences once the recipe is prepared," he said.
Pair a dark, robust coffee with other strong flavors and a lighter roast with foods that are more delicate. Espresso is a good choice for desserts because it does not add a lot of liquid to the recipe. If you don't have espresso, a strong dark-roast coffee can be used instead.
For the best flavor, freshly ground coffee is best. If possible, grind the beans just before using them. It's hard to beat the aroma of freshly ground coffee beans.
When it comes to storage, experts agree that coffee, both whole beans and ground, should be stored in an opaque, airtight container. Oxygen, heat and light cause the delicate, aromatic coffee oils to deteriorate, and the coffee will lose its aroma and freshness. Experts advise buying coffee in small quantities to minimize long-term storage.
Coffee and Cinnamon Rolls
Rolls
2¿ cups white bread flour
2 tablespoons sugar
½ teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons active dry yeast
3 eggs
½ cup milk, lukewarm
3½ tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
Filling
½ cup unsalted butter (1 stick), at room temperature
¿ cup light brown sugar, packed
1 tablespoon ground cinnamon
1½ tablespoons espresso
Glaze
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1-2 tablespoons espresso
1 cup confectioners' sugar, sifted
Cut out 12, 6-inch squares of parchment paper and use to line two large 6-cup muffin pans.
For the rolls: Sift the flour, sugar, salt and yeast into a large bowl, combine and then make a well in the center. Mix together the eggs, milk and butter and pour into the flour mixture and stir together.
Turn the dough out onto a floured surface and knead for 5-10 minutes, working in a little more flour if necessary, until smooth and elastic. Put in a lightly greased bowl, grease the top of the dough, cover in plastic wrap and leave in a warm place for about 1 hour until doubled in size.
For the filling: Beat together the butter, sugar, cinnamon and espresso. Cover and chill for about 30 minutes.
To assemble: Turn the dough out onto a floured surface and punch down, then divide into two pieces. Roll out each piece to 8-by-10-inches. Spread the filling over the dough and gently roll up from one long side to form a roll. Slice each roll into six pieces and put in the lined muffin cups. Cover each muffin pan with plastic wrap or place pans in a plastic bag and leave in a warm place for 30 minutes until almost doubled in size.
Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Bake the rolls for about 15 minutes until risen and golden. Transfer to a wire rack to cool; make the glaze.
For the glaze: Put the butter and espresso in a pan and heat gently until the butter has melted. Stir in the sugar and heat gently, stirring for about 3 minutes until smooth and glossy and just bubbling. Bubble very gently for another minute, then spoon over the rolls. Serve warm.
Serves 12.
Cook's note: The parchment paper pieces act as muffin pan liners and help the rolls hold their shape.
Nutrition values per serving: 350 calories, 15 g fat (10 g saturated), 47 g carbohydrates, 1 g fiber, 6 g protein, 90 mg cholesterol, 125 mg sodium.
"Coffee Indulgences" by Susannah Blake (2007 Ryland, Peters & Small, $12.95)
Mocha Fudge Cake
¾ cup unsalted butter (1½ sticks)
10 ounces bittersweet chocolate, broken into pieces
1 cup sugar
3 large eggs
¿ cup flour
2 tablespoons instant coffee, dissolved in 2 tablespoons
just-boiled water
Confectioner's sugar, to dust
Heavy cream, whipped to serve (optional)
Heat the oven to 325 degrees. Grease an 8-inch round cake pan and line the bottom with parchment paper.
Put the butter and chocolate in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of simmering water. Heat gently, stirring, until melted. Make sure the bowl does not touch the water. Remove from the heat and let cool for 5 minutes. Stir in the sugar, then beat in the eggs one at a time. Sift over the flour and fold in, then stir in the coffee.
Pour the mixture into the prepared cake pan and bake 55 minutes until firm to the touch and pale and speckled on top. (There should be a slight wobble in the center, but don't worry, the cake will firm up as it cools.) Remove from the oven and let cool in the pan.
To serve, carefully remove the cake from the pan and put on a serving plate. Dust with confectioners' sugar and serve in wedges with whipped heavy cream if desired.
Serves eight.
Nutrition values per serving: 450 calories, 34 g fat (20 g saturated), 44 g carbohydrates, 3 g fiber, 6 g protein, 125 mg cholesterol, 25 mg sodium.
"Coffee Indulgences" by Susannah Blake (2007 Ryland, Peters & Small, $12.95)
Coffee Burgers
1 pound ground beef
¼ cup blue cheese, crumbled
1 heaping tablespoon espresso, ground extra fine
1 heaping tablespoon chili powder
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
¼ cup chopped green onions
1 jalapeno pepper, small, thinly sliced, seeds removed
¼ cup red or green pepper, chopped
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
In a large bowl, mix all ingredients together. Form into four patties and cook under a broiler or on a hot grill.
Serves four.
Nutrition values per serving: 180 calories, 8 g fat (3.5 g saturated), 4 g carbohydrates, 1 g fiber, 24 g protein, 65 mg cholesterol, 280 mg sodium.
Coffee Spice-Rub Grind
3 tablespoons coffee beans, coarse ground
1 tablespoon black pepper, coarse ground
2 teaspoons salt, coarse ground such as kosher or sea salt
1 teaspoon dried sage
½ teaspoon garlic, granulated or powdered
In a small bowl, combine all ingredients. Rub the seasoning blend into pork, quail or duck, then cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or overnight. Grill, broil or roast accordingly.
Serves two or enough rub for a small roast.
Nutrition values per serving: 20 calories, 0 fat, 4 g carbohydrates, 1 g fiber, 1 g protein, 0 cholesterol, 1920 mg sodium.
Kate's Global Kitchen, www.globalgourmet.com
Coffee-rubbed T-Bone
1 tablespoon ground coffee
1 tablespoon brown sugar
1 tablespoon dried oregano leaves
2 teaspoons salt, preferably kosher
1 teaspoon black pepper, freshly ground
1 teaspoon paprika
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 T-bone steak (about 1 pound)
Olive oil
In a small bowl, stir ground coffee with brown sugar, oregano, salt, pepper, paprika and cumin.
Lightly drizzle steak with oil, then generously sprinkle both sides with seasoning mixture and rub into steak.
Broil or barbecue about 5 minutes per side for rare.
Serves two.
Cook's Note: Spice rub is delicious on beef, pork or lamb and can easily be doubled. Store in an airtight container and it will keep well for several months.
Nutrition values per serving: 380 calories, 14 g fat (5 g saturated), 10 g carbohydrates, 2 g fiber, 49 g protein, 110 mg cholesterol, 2060 mg sodium.
Luscious Lamb Chops
8 lamb chops, thick, bone-in
¾ cup coffee, freshly brewed
½ cup tomato sauce
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons lemon juice, freshly squeezed
2 tablespoons wine vinegar
1 tablespoon oil, olive or canola
½ cup dark brown sugar
Heat oven to 375 degrees. Place the lamb chops in a shallow, ovenproof dish that can be used for serving.
In a medium-sized saucepan, place the coffee, tomato sauce, soy sauce, lemon juice, vinegar, oil and brown sugar; bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce the heat and simmer for 5 minutes more.
Pour the sauce over the lamb chops and bake, uncovered, for about 45 minutes. Baste occasionally.
Serves four.
Nutrition values per serving: 340 calories, 11 g fat (3.5 g saturated), 30 g carbohydrates, 0 fiber, 28 g protein, 85 mg cholesterol, 760 mg sodium.