He's taking a different approach to banquet fare

"Stay true to what the food should be -- keep it traditional, but still original." Chef Troy Tornabeni of St. Andrew's Golf and Country Club in West Chicago values these words of advice from friend Angelo Nicelli, former owner of Café Angelo a Chicago hot spot in the '60s and '70s.

The two met when Nicelli, a regular at Hollywood Casino in Aurora where Tornabeni was working at the time, asked to speak to the new chef. They formed a fast friendship and in his free time, the 24-year-old Tornabeni still spends time with Nicelli.

"He is in his 80s; we hang out and talk on the phone. He is my mentor."

Not that chef Tornabeni has much free time these days as he stays busy preparing meals for more than 1,500 people a week at St. Andrew's.

Tornabeni, of Westmont, started his culinary career as a line cook at the Oak Hotel in Burr Ridge. After graduating from the Culinary and Hospitality Institute of Chicago in 2001, he worked at Hollywood Casino and Orchard Valley Golf Course, also in Aurora. At St. Andrew's he is working toward offering personalized service and a more contemporary American-style menu for the 2000s.

How did you become interested in cooking? I always enjoyed watching my mom and grandmother cook. My mom wanted to go to culinary school and I guess I just followed her dream.

What are your responsibilities at St. Andrew's? My responsibilities are primarily banquet related, although we do offer a bar/lounge menu to customers of J.J.'s Bar. We typically do two or three banquets a day, ranging from golf outings to bridal showers and weddings. I have a kitchen the size of one and a half football fields, but keep a small staff: two dishwashers, two prep cooks and an intern. I like to work with just a few people I can trust.

Production must be one of your strengths. Yes, we do a lot of prep work. In my third week here, I did four weddings in one weekend with just a dishwasher. I often work from 5 a.m. until 10 or 11 p.m. seven days a week.

What is your most memorable moment in the kitchen? That's easy. Three years ago at Hollywood Casino, three cooks and I did 473 covers for the Tony Bennett show. It was chaos; we were very backed up. The saute cooks were working 20 orders and had 50 orders waiting. Needless to say, we were shorthanded.

Do you have a favorite kitchen task? I am a big saute/broiler guy. I like to work with game and meat in general. Steak house concepts are my strength. My favorite item to cook is Lamb Osso Bucco. Lamb shanks are great because they have so many applications and great flavor.

Do you have a favorite ingredient? Royal trumpet mushrooms. They can be grilled whole and are like giant porcini mushrooms without the cost.

Do you favor any cooking trends? I like raw cuisine even though it is fading. I also support the use of local produce and protein sources. If I'm doing an Asian dish, for example, I head out to the Asian market in Chicago to pick up any fresh items I need.

What inspires you to create new dishes? Talking with the customers. We are beginning to break away from standard banquet fare and are doing more customized menus including Indian and Oriental cuisine. Also, I try not to copy anyone else because the industry thrives on originality. If you don't try something, you never know if it will work.

Where do you eat when you dine out? I stay away from chains. I like smaller venues and often go to local places in Westmont. I also like De La Costa in Chicago.

Tell us about this recipe? It is fettuccine with a dessert twist. I was working on the line plating fettuccine when I caught a glimpse of raspberry coulis. I decided to put the two together and came up with Chocolate-Pistachio Fettuccine with Chambord Crème Anglaise.

Try it at home or at St. Andrews Golf and Country Club, 3N441 Route 59, West Chicago. (630) 231-3100.

Pistachio-Chocolate Fettuccini Alfredo

Pasta

1½ cups bread flour

¼ cup Valrhona cocoa powder

¼ cup sugar

teaspoon salt

2 eggs

¼ cup pistachio paste

Flour for dusting

Chambord Crème Anglaise

4 egg yolks

2 cups heavy cream

¼ cup sugar

1 vanilla bean, split and scraped

1 tablespoon Chambord liquor

Sift together the flour, cocoa powder, sugar and salt. Make a well in the center of the sifted ingredients; add the egg and pistachio paste. With a fork, slowly incorporate the wet into the dry moving from the center out. Dust with extra flour to make a semi-firm ball of pasta dough.

Follow the pasta machine manufacturers directions for rolling into sheets and cutting into fettuccini. Bring water to a boil and blanch until al dente. Cool pasta and set aside for later use.

For the crème anglaise: In a medium-sized bowl, whisk the egg yolks until they are a pale color and slightly thickened. In a stainless steel pan, bring the cream, sugar and vanilla to a boil. Take 1 cup of the hot cream mixture and add it to the whipped egg yolks and combine. Add the egg yolk mixture back to the remaining hot cream mixture and heat over a low flame. Slowly stir with a wooden spoon or rubber spatula until it coats the back of the utensil. Strain mixture through a fine mesh strainer.

To assemble: Heat the pasta in a little water and strain, making sure all moisture is removed, and spin on a dinner fork. Be sure the pasta is wrapped tightly around the fork. Place 2 tablespoons warm crème anglaise in the center of a dessert plate. Place the pasta fork on top of the sauce and spoon 1 additional teaspoon of the crème anglaise over the pasta. Lightly dust with confectioners sugar for a parmesan cheese effect.

Editor's note: Look for pistachio paste Caputo's or at online retailers like KingArthurFlour.com. Or, substitute almond paste or hazelnut paste.

Chef Troy Tornabeni, St. Andrew's Golf and Country Club, West Chicago