Color your holiday party with red velvet cake

While good old-fashioned butter cake provides a solid foundation for desserts most of the year, the holidays deserves something scrumptiously special.

Few sweets on the dessert table garner attention like red velvet cake.

This traditional Southern cake boasts decidedly un-Southern history. Canadian bakers lay claim to creating the recipe circa 1940 and rumors swirl about its New York City beginnings at the Waldorf Astoria Hotel in 1953. Southern bakers came to rely upon this recipe for their time-honored groom's cakes.

The secret behind this dessert's appeal lies in its radiant ruby crumbs. Unlike other cake recipes that fall back on conservative colors and flavors to create culinary allure, red velvet cake boldly captures our eye and taste buds.

What makes this cake most interesting is the various methods used to create the signature red color. Originally, the chemical reaction between the combination of acidic sour cream or buttermilk and baking soda with cocoa powder contributed the reddish hue. Other vintage recipes call for boiled beets in place of rationed sugar.

Today most recipes call for red food dye to color the batter before baking. Buttermilk still softens the crumb while providing a smooth flavor. A conventional cream cheese frosting offers visual contrast and sweetness.

All this sounded good to me, but I wished for a flexible recipe that would work well for a variety of applications. After all, not all holiday parties call for the panache of an extravagant layer cake. I envisioned a batter that offers a baker the choice of moist cupcakes, a tender sheet cake or firm, yet soft layers.

Starting with the standard red velvet cake recipe, I replaced oil for the usual butter. This boosts the moisture content and increases shelf-life. In addition, substituting sour cream for buttermilk adds a firm touch without compromising the velvet texture.

To enhance the signature hue, I used red food color but also stirred in a small amount of cocoa powder. Drawing upon the powerful combination of acid in sour cream and baking soda, the cocoa addition slightly deepened the red color while baking.

Satisfied with my festive holiday cake recipe, I turned my attention toward crafting a delectable frosting. Traditional cream cheese toppings offer sensational flavor and ivory color, but these frostings weigh down the velvet texture of our cake.

To lighten the frosting I drastically reduced the amount of cream cheese, boosted the unsalted butter and shortening content and stirred in sour cream. No milk or whipped cream necessary. Surprised? The lithe texture of sour cream lightens the frosting while offering a savory smoothness against the powdered sugar.

Cupcakes fare well at casual celebrations and kids' holiday parties. Invite creative young bakers into the kitchen and pass the sprinkles, candies and other edible decorations. Don't forget the festive baking paper cups.

For the office party, take a 9-by-13-inch cake and swirl red and green decorating gel on top of the frosting for visual fun. For a more formal affair, add chopped pistachios or glazed fruit to the top of a layer cake.

Most importantly, celebrate good friendships with great food this holiday season.

Red Velvet Cupcakes

2½ cups all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons cocoa powder (not Dutch processed)

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon salt

1½ cups sugar

2 large eggs

¾ cup vegetable oil

¾ cup sour cream

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1 bottle (1 ounce) red food color

Frosting

¼ cup unsalted butter, softened

¼ cup cream cheese, softened

¼ cup butter-flavored shortening

2½ cups powdered sugar

½ cup sour cream

Heat oven to 350 degrees. Line two, standard 12-cup muffin tins with festive baking cups.

In large mixing bowl, whisk together flour, cocoa powder, baking soda, salt and sugar. Set aside.

In medium bowl, combine eggs and oil. Whisk until smooth. Stir in sour cream and vanilla extract. Pour liquid mixture over dry ingredients. Mix on low speed 30 seconds until combined. Scrape bowl well. Add entire bottle of red food color. Beat 30 seconds on low speed, scraping bowl well. Increase speed to medium and beat 1 minute until smooth. Scrape bowl well.

Spoon batter into prepared pans; bake 13-15 minutes, just until top springs back when touched. Cool 10 minutes before removing cake from pan.

For the frosting: Beat the butter, cream cheese and shortening until combined and light, about 1 minute. Add powdered sugar and sour cream. Beat on low speed 30 seconds until smooth. Increase speed to high and beat 2 minutes until light and creamy. If frosting feels too soft, chill until firm, but let soften slightly before frosting.

Serves 24.

Baker's hint: Reduced-fat cream cheese and sour cream can be substituted for the regular varieties.

This recipe also works in a 9-by-13-inch pan or two 8-inch round pans. Lightly grease and flour bottom only of the pans. Bake large cake 30-35 minutes; 8-inch rounds 25-27 minutes. Double the frosting if making a layer cake.

Nutrition values per serving: 276 calories, 14 g fat (5 g saturated), 35 g carbohydrates, trace amount fiber, 2 g protein, 30 mg cholesterol, 160 mg sodium.