The Quad Cities: where eagles fly and inventors dare

Tucked into both banks of the Mississippi River, the Quad Cities are a nice place to visit and you might like to live there -- especially if you were an American bald eagle. Locals have noted that in recent years a few migrating eagles have remained to make eastern Iowa and western Illinois their year-round home.

In 1782 the bald eagle was officially declared the national emblem of the United States despite opposition from Benjamin Franklin, who lobbied for the turkey to become America's symbol. But America turned out to be a poor custodian of its national bird. By the early 1960s, illegal shooting, destruction of habitat and contamination of food sources had these magnificent birds dying off in such large numbers that the species was placed on the Endangered Species Act's "threatened list." At low ebb, numbers had been reduced to only 417 nesting pairs in the Lower 48.

Since then, conservationists have worked hard to save the American bald eagle. Today, the eagle has flown off that "threatened list" and into the radar of tourists looking for a meaningful eco-tourism experience. Numbers have climbed to more than 7,066 nesting pairs and more than 40,000 birds.

Each winter, an average of 2,500 eagles glide on the thermals above the open waters of the Mississippi at Quad Cities, looking for fish (they consume up to 2 pounds of food a day). On a clear day, their phenomenal vision enables eagles to see fish from nearly two miles distant.

During the migration season, eagles are so plentiful in the area that it is common to find as many as a dozen perched on one tree. You'll need powerful binoculars to help you get the most out of a sighting or, better yet, a high-powered spotting scope. This brings you eye to eye with the eagle (whose vision is 10 times better than that of a human). With the scope, you'll see such details as the golden glint of the eagle's eye and the razor-sharp black talons extending from its toes.

A Bald Eagle Safari guided by Bob Motz, a retired schoolteacher, is a popular way to study the migrating raptors. He reports that many regular visitors return annually and that more guests are giving eagle safaris as gifts. Motz, who has been guiding safaris for more than 20 years, guarantees sightings or he will refund your money.

Cost is $20 per carload per hour for up to four passengers for a two-to-three-hour tour. Larger groups use buses, for which the charge is $40 per hour.

Spotting scopes are good for viewer and eagle. The viewer can stay in the warmth of the car and the eagle will not be disturbed. According to Motz, eagles use vast amounts of energy to fly and must conserve energy for finding food and keeping warm.

During a safari, you'll learn the lore and legend of this 15-pound bird with an 8-foot wingspan. You'll discover, for example, that the eagle is by no means bald. The name originates from the Welsh word balde, which means white (for the white feathers around the head).

Guided tours are not the only way to see the bald eagles. You can go it alone with a pair of binoculars. The Quad Cities CVB provides information on bald eagle etiquette and viewing locations. Prime viewing areas are at Lock & Dam 14 and 15 along both the Iowa and Illinois sides of the Mississippi riverfront, Sunset Park in Rock Island, Ill., and Credit Island in Davenport, Iowa.

Spice up your eagle-spotting experience at the Bald Eagle Days Environmental Fair and Wildlife Art Show (Jan. 12 and 13 at the QCCA Expo Center in Rock Island). Last year, 30,000 attended the event that includes live eagle, hawk, owl and vulture flying demonstrations, along with educational programs by the World Bird Sanctuary; "Dangerous Reptile" presentations and a program on the American alligator. Other diversions include solar car display, American Indian dancing and wildlife art (on display and for sale).

Also avidly interested in the aerodynamics of flight was the quintessential "Renaissance man," Leonardo da Vinci. Some 400 years before the Wright brothers left terra firma on their short but historic flight, da Vinci was busy designing flying machines.

One of them, a glider invented by da Vinci, hangs from the ceiling at the Putman Museum in Davenport, Iowa. It marks the opening, earlier this month, of an international blockbuster exhibition, "Leonardo da Vinci: Man, Inventor, Genius." It is scheduled to run through Feb. 23.

Da Vinci was a painter, sculptor, architect, art historian, writer and inventor -- mostly of flying machines, mechanical robots, submarines and other things that were amazingly advanced for his time. Step into his workshop to learn about this man's work from his own handwritten notebooks. View film documentaries chronicling the Renaissance.

Visitors to this exhibition can observe and play with the more than 60 Italian-made models built from Leonardo's sketches. They can build their own machine or bridge according to Leonardo's instructions and test the firing power of a 7-foot-long catapult he designed.

If you go

Information: Quad Cities Convention & Visitors Bureau, (800) 747-7800, www.visitquadcities.com; Bob Motz Eagle Safaris, (309) 788-8389, or e-mail Motz at eaglemotz@aol.com.

Mileage: Quad Cities are about 165 miles west of Chicago.

MikeMichaelson is a travelwriter based in Chicago andthe author of the guidebook"Chicago's Best-Kept Secrets."