Tips for choosing a turkey-friendly wine

For many Americans, wine has become as much a part of Thanksgiving as turkey. Following are some tips that will make the wine shopping an equally enjoyable part of your holiday celebration.

Begin with bubbly: Thanksgiving is second only to New Year's Eve in America's sparkling wine consumption, but unless your menu includes sophisticated foodstuff such as caviar or smoked salmon, this is one occasion for which I don't recommend the real McCoy Champagne. Prices are too steep to satisfy both budget and large gatherings and Champagne's acid-y nature will grate against even the moderate sweetness of appetizers such as Swedish meatballs, cheeses or crab dip.

Choose instead a good-value sparkler with off-dry (meaning slightly sweet) flavors, such as Ste. Hilaire "Blanquette de Limoux" (France, about $10.) For an all-American choice, select the subtle fruitiness of a "Blanc de Noirs" (a white wine made from black grapes) from producers including Chandon (California, about $17) or Gruet (New Mexico, about $14.)

Consider your seasonings: Turkey's richness complements red, white or rose but your specific recipe dictates the most successful pairing. I prefer Pinot Noir with traditional roasts, as well as with smoked or spicy preparations. The grape's red fruit flavors complement both fruity and spicy seasonings and there's enough tannin to bite into the poultry's tender meat, but not enough to ignite spicy seasonings. Besides, Pinot's new popularity will impress upon guests your superior wine savvy.

While popularity has rewarded established producers with the plush prices they deserve for their trials with this temperamental grape, it has also encouraged good-value newcomers. Silkiness of texture first attracted this palate to De Bertoli "Vat 10" Pinot Noir (Australia, about $12); vibrant red fruit flavor with subtle, spicy accents make it my good-value Pinot Noir recommendation. For a rare and delicious taste of locally made Pinot Noir, contact Wisconsin's Wollersheim Winery for their 2005 vintage (see Ross' Choice.) Check with your merchant for the many fine Oregon and California Pinot Noir's available.

For white wine, and to delight the widest range of guests, choose Riesling. Chateau Ste. Michelle is America's Riesling specialist, including the widely available Columbia Valley selection (about $10), and the tropical Indian Wells Vineyard (about $16). Or try Eroica, a collaboration with Germany's Ernst Loosen, combining the New World's lush fruit with the mineral complexity and high-beam acid associated with the Old World's finest producers.

Steer clear of oaky or tannic wines, which will clash with both bird and most side dishes. The exception to this rule is a rich yet balanced Chardonnay, like California's Bonterra (about $15) or Washington State's Barnard Griffin Tulip Label, (about $14) which will enhance the roasted butteriness of traditional turkey, squash, chestnut or oyster stuffing.

Don't forget dessert: The Thanksgiving feast offers little expectation of calorie counting, so end on a sweet note with a dessert wine, such as a "Late Harvest" or "Eiswein" from Chateau Ste. Michelle, California's Beringer Vineyards or Inniskillin from Canada.

Shop early: Don't wait until your turkey is defrosting to shop for wine. Wine merchants are already ramped up for the holidays, so shop now and avoid the last-minute crush. Because Thanksgiving is often buffet or family-style service, offer a few wine selections for guests to mix-and-match with courses.

As to quantity, the basic calculation is about five servings per bottle; each guest drinks two glasses in the first hour, one glass every hour thereafter. Check your merchant's return policy on unopened bottles.

Of course, be certain to offer delicious non-alcoholic drinks for non-imbibers and to keep the happiest of holidays on Thanksgiving and the lazy morning that follows.

Ross' choice

Pinot Noir

2005

Wollersheim Winery

Prairie du Sac, Wis.

• Suggested retail and availability: $14 (plus shipping) from the winery

With a French-born winemaker and grapes imported from Washington State, Wollersheim Winery brings Burgundian flavor to America's heartland. This is a classy Pinot Noir with silken texture and ripe black currant accented with "forest floor" flavors of earth, herbs and subtle woodsiness. Even though shipping is expensive, new regulations will prohibit shipping wine into Illinois in 2008, so stock up now. Order at www.wollersheim.com or by calling (800) 847-9463. Of course, the wines of Wollersheim are so consistently good, it may be worth the drive north of Madison for an autumnal tour and tasting.