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Holiday spirit takes flight in Red Wing, Minn.

If Norman Rockwell, Currier & Ives and Hollywood's Central Casting had teamed up to create a pluperfect holiday getaway destination, they might have come up with Red Wing, Minn. (pop. 16,035).

Tucked into towering limestone bluffs along the Mississippi, this historic river town is just an hour's drive from the Twin Cities and from Rochester. It's the kind of town where you might be inspired to greet passing strangers -- and where, refreshingly in this age of rage, they're likely to respond in kind.

Red Wing is where you can enjoy a big helping of holiday cheer. It also is a good spot for eclectic shopping along cobbled streets where one-of-a-kind boutiques and galleries occupy converted century-old homes.

Maybe you'll choose a piece of salt-glazed pottery made and hand-decorated at Red Wing Pottery in the tradition of the town's 19th-century artisans. Or perhaps something will catch your eye at Red Wing Stoneware Co., a popular stop where you can watch pottery being thrown and decorated.

Sample the local breakfast specialty of Sturdiwheat pancakes and buy packages of mix to take home. They make ideal holiday hostess gifts. Stop at Knudsen's Cheesecakes & Caramels, where its eponymous goodies are produced in a beautifully restored 1875 building.

Certainly, you'll want to visit Red Wing Shoes, its factory dating back to 1905, its tannery to 1872. Although its signature footwear is sturdy steel-toed boots and work shoes, it also produces hiking, walking and casual dress shoes. Learn about its history at a small corporate museum and shop for bargains at its factory outlet.

Many holiday-season visitors make the St. James Hotel their headquarters as they explore Red Wing and enjoy the beauty of the river and of the Hiawatha Valley.

In 1861, Henry David Thoreau climbed Barn Bluff and later wrote glowingly about the picturesque valley. Favorite outdoor activities include strolls along the river, watching boats of all sizes negotiate Lock and Dam No. 3, brisk hikes along the bluffs and cross-country skiing on the Cannon Valley Trail. Fishing is available year-round.

The historic St. James Hotel, built in Italianate style, opened on Thanksgiving Day in 1875, when 500 prominent guests were treated to a lavish banquet featuring raw oysters, roast venison, Boston cream puffs and strawberry ice cream. Guests danced the night away, marveling at such modern amenities as steam heat, hot and cold running water, gas throughout and a state-of-the-art kitchen. The first floor featured a billiard hall, barbershop and public baths.

Today, this landmark hotel exudes Victorian elegance and is an idyllic getaway spot with 61 luxury guest rooms, many with river views, some with whirlpool baths. Rooms feature period antique decor, handmade quilts, and a range of amenities from cable TV and two-line telephones with voice mail and data ports (the hotel is wireless throughout) to twice-daily maid service including turndown service with chocolates. Complimentary coffee and hot cocoa is served in the historic lobby.

The St. James also offers a variety of holiday events ranging from buffets to special teas and wine tastings. Included are Victorian Tea (Dec. 15), Caroler's Brunch (Dec. 16) and Santa's Candy Cane Brunch (Dec. 23). Debuting this year is the Gingerbread House Contest, an event expected to be repeated annually. These creative culinary works remain on display through Dec. 26.

Jump-start your holiday shopping at the hotel's shopping court. Choices include seasonal gifts and a wide selection of cookbooks and books by regional authors, as well as jewelry and clothing.

Interested in bed-and-breakfasts? Seven showcase themselves as they welcome visitors to an Open House Tour (Dec. 4). Decked out for the holidays, these inns offer tempting refreshments and live entertainment (as well as providing a popular lodging alternative).

Red Wing's quaint A Tale of Two Sisters Tearoom and Gift Shoppe, known for its delicate sandwiches and freshly baked scones slathered with cream and preserves, offers a series of holiday-themed teas. Visit for Dickens of a Tea (Dec. 1), American Girl St. Nicholas Tea (Dec. 8) or Nutcracker Tea (Dec. 22). It also hosts a special Breakfast With Santa on Dec. 8 and 15.

Should you visit Red Wing on the Friday after Thanksgiving, you'll catch the Holiday Stroll with parade (Santa arrives aboard a gleaming fire truck), tree-lighting ceremony, horse-drawn wagon rides, a living Nativity and strolling carolers.

Food offerings on this busy day literally range from soup to nuts. Find hot, spicy chili -- gallons of it (free, but a goodwill offering is appreciated) -- roasted chestnuts and cinnamon roasted almonds. Start the day right with a pancake breakfast at the Elk's Club. As you browse downtown shops, sample refreshments and treats offered by many Red Wing retailers.

Consider Red Wing and the St. James Hotel as a destination for a winter sports break at Welsh Village, ranked by Ski Magazine for the past two years as a superior ski and snowboarding resort. It offers eight chairlifts, 50 runs, three terrain parks, learning center and a half pipe. More than 100 snow guns supplement Mother Nature.

The hotel's Pamper and Powder Package invites you to spend your days on the slopes and evenings relaxing at the comfortable hostelry.

If you go

Information: Red Wing Visitors & Convention Bureau, (800) 498-3444, www.redwing.org; St. James Hotel, (800) 252-1875, www.st-james-hotel.com

Mileage: Red Wing is about 370 miles northwest of Chicago.

Though the luxurious St. James Hotel dates from 1875, it contains many modern amenities. Photos Courtesy of Jon Loye Photography
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