Snowcat operator makes peaks of prime powder available

To powder partisans, these measure up to Warren Miller-like conditions. Two feet of fresh flakes have fallen overnight and the Colorado Rockies around Steamboat Springs lie blanketed under a duvet of deep, unrumpled white.

A wide-tracked snowcat grinds up a hillside, stopping near the top. Ten skiers and riders pile out the back door and gaze down the slope of flawless fluff. For several, it will be their first opportunity to make first tracks.

The participants on this back-of-beyond adventure are not the tail-wagging powder-hounds one normally associates with snowcat operations. Instead, most are blue-trail, recreational skiers. Yesterday, they carved turns down the groomed runs of the Steamboat Ski Resort. Today, they're going to tackle the back country on a trip specifically designed to provide intermediate skiers with Warren Miller moments.

"If you are a strong intermediate who can ski groomers with nice parallel turns, you're ready to at least come and try it out here with us," claims Steamboat Powdercats guide Kevin Owens. "We'll help you learn to ski the powder, which is not as hard as many people think."

Many snowcat operations open their trips to intermediates, but few actually tailor trips specifically for less-than-expert skiers and riders. Steamboat Powdercats is an exception. Its 10,000 acres of Forest Service land around Buffalo Pass northeast of town includes slopes varying from steep and deep to more shallow and open. That variety of terrain allows them to run trips for a variety of capacities.

"We separate by ability so we're not placing intermediate skiers with those of higher ability levels," says manager Kent Vertrees. "Intermediates don't have to feel stressed because experts are there, and they don't have to feel like they're holding people up."

Today's group comes from both ends of the country and points in between. Ages range from middle school to middle aged. Eight have skis and two ride snowboards. At least one of the participants claims a fair amount of previous powder experience.

Steamboat Powdercats provides fat skis or snowboards as part of the package, so everyone has appropriate gear. Avalanche beacons are also distributed, even though the intermediate-level slopes are considered safe from sliding.

After advising skiers to make sure they get a good solid click when stepping into bindings, Vertrees goes over the rules of the day.

Never ski below the lead guide. Always ski with a buddy. Be aware of unmarked hazards. If it looks like a rock covered with snow, it probably is a rock covered with snow. Don't use wrist straps. It's better to drop a pole than have a shoulder ripped from the socket. Always stay close together.

"We try to conserve powder out here in cat operations," he says. "Have a fresh turn every turn, but keep them close together."

Vertrees leads the first run down. The slope is short, open and no steeper than a typical blue run at a resort. Skis zing effortlessly through the powder, leaving a rooster tail of fluff flying behind. The wider snowboarders plow down trailed by a wake of white.

The group does well. No one falls and at the bottom, everyone sports a wide grin. It looks like a goggle-eyed toothpaste ad.

Skis, boards and poles are loaded into the rack on the back of the cat and the machine again heads up the hill. In the heated passenger compartment behind the cab, participants sip water and munch Snickers bars. XM satellite radio provides tunes, which the guides keep toned down. The ride is surprisingly comfortable considering the cat is clawing its way up a snow-covered summer road. Today, there are so many new drifts that driver/guide Allison McMillan occasionally loses the route.

"Buff Pass gets the most snow in Colorado on a yearly basis," claims Vertrees. "It averages somewhere between 500 and 530 inches per year."

The next run lies at an equally shallow angle, but it's a longer, two-pitch descent. The skiers quickly learn that the deep, ankle-grabbing snow turns blue-angled slopes into the powder equivalent of green bunny runs. By the time they reach the bottom, most decide they want steeper terrain. The guides comply.

The third run descends relatively open slope that might be a black-diamond trail at a typical downhill resort. Instead of icy moguls, this run is covered with snow soft as baby powder. A few appreciate those cushy conditions when they take spills.

"We all fall, even the guides. It's part of the fun," encourages Owens. "Besides, in your entire skiing career, when are you going to get to take such soft crashes?"

Around noon, the cat heads to a remote cabin where lunch is served. Today, it's taco soup, shrimp scampi and chocolate chip cookies, which have been delivered by snowmobile from a Steamboat Springs restaurant.

More descents follow in the afternoon. Intermediate groups on a typical day will ski between 10-15 runs, depending on weather and the participants' ability. For skiers unfamiliar with skiing powder, fatigue can always be a factor. Fortunately, anyone who gets tired can always sit out a run and ride up front in the cab with the cat driver. In this group, nobody opts out.

Instead, everyone displays continued confidence as conditions increase in difficulty. Runs are longer, slopes a bit steeper and the guides even take the skiers through some open glades so they get a taste of tree skiing. Guides share helpful hints along the way.

"We're from back East. We don't have powder like this," says New Jersey resident Andrew Lankler, who has come with his 12-year-old son Bradley. "We don't know how to ski it. We figured they would teach us how to do it. We're having a great time."

"It's fun," echoes Bradley. "But it's hard, and it takes more than one day to learn."

By mid-afternoon, the cat begins wending its way back toward the main road, stopping for a few final runs along the way. Skiers and riders who were hesitant at first now take off at the first opportunity. The group bonds. Grins remain. Warren Miller moments have been had by all.

If you go

Steamboat Springs, Colo.

GO: Skiers and snowboarders who can comfortably negotiate blue- and black-diamond groomed trails

NO: If you're not up for a challenge, stick to resort runs

Need to know: Steamboat Powdercats, (800) 288-0543, www.steamboatpowdercats.com

Getting there: United and United Express fly daily from Denver and to the Yampa Valley Regional Airport in Hayden, 22 miles from Steamboat Springs. Delta Connection offers similar service from Salt Lake City, Utah. Motorists can reach Steamboat Springs by following U.S. Route 40 172 miles northwest from Denver.

Skill requirements: No previous powder experience is needed for intermediate-level trips. Participants should be able to make smooth parallel turns and confidently descend resort blue runs and the occasional groomed black. Steamboat Powdercats also offers trips for advanced- and expert-level skiers and snowboarders. In order for representatives to place participants into the correct-level groups, it's important that folks be honest about their skiing and snowboarding ability. Participants who talk their way onto trips that exceed their ability might end up spending the day riding in the snowcat.

Cost: $299-$400 covers snowcat and guides, ski or snowboard rental, avalanche beacon, lodging pickup and drop off, continental breakfast, full lunch, apres-ski beer and wine plus a souvenir CD with images from the day. Gratuities, usually 15 percent to 20 percent, are extra. A minimum of five persons are required per cat.

Accommodations: Steamboat Central Reservations ((877) 237-2628, www.steamboat.com) can arrange lodging in the area.

Other intermediate cat-skiing operations:

Big Red Cats ((250) 362-2271, www.bigredcats.com) in Rossland, British Columbia, offers intermediate-level snowcat trips in the Monashee Mountains. Prices run about $299-$395 Canadian plus tax.

Canadian Mountain Holidays ((800) 661-0252, www.canadianmountainholidays.com) features Powder Introduction camps designed for strong intermediates who want to learn to heli-ski. Prices start at about $3,784 Canadian for a four-night camp, twin occupancy, to about $9,741 Canadian for seven-night camps, single occupancy.

Powder Mountain ((801) 745-3772, www.powdermountain.com) near Ogden, Utah, offers Powder Tours with hosts guiding skiers and riders of intermediate level or better down powder runs. Trips are private for groups of up to six. Half-day tours cost $90 per group and $140 for a full day. Snowcat rides are an extra $10 per person, per ride.

Alta Lodge in Alta, Utah, ((800) 707-2582, www.altalodge.com) sponsors an annual Powder Tracks clinic. While not cat skiing, the program provides intermediate and advanced skiers four days of powder instruction. The next clinic will be Jan. 12-17 and costs $2,435-$3,124, which includes instruction, equipment, lifts, lodging and most meals.

-- Dan Leeth