Protect plants now against winter's foraging critters

Take advantage of pleasant November days to protect valuable trees and shrubs from wintertime damage by wildlife. If rabbits, rodents or deer have been problems in past winters, take multiple precautions now to keep animals from rediscovering plants and forming browsing habits that are hard to break.

Physical barriers are the most effective approach to preventing animal damage. Spread garden netting or snow fencing around plants that have been previously rubbed against or eaten. Trunks of newly planted deciduous trees and the foliage of yews, arborvitae, small-leaved rhododendrons and azaleas are common favorites.

For landscapes with too many deer favorites to wrap, consider making a simple black string fence to protect them. Tree trunks or temporary metal fence posts make easy supports to wrap string around. Put the first row 2 feet off the ground and two more rows no more than 18 to 24 inches apart. Black string is difficult for human eyes to detect (use carefully where children might play), but it can deter deer from entering protected areas. Loosen the string once or twice a year to avoid girdling trees.

Rabbits and rodents like to gnaw on plant bark, which if removed can kill plants. Deter these critters from overwintering in your garden by removing convenient winter habitats. While ornamental grasses and perennials that are left standing provide attractive winter interest, in problem areas it is often better to cut them back to limit their appeal to animals seeking cover.

Here's what you need to do in the garden this month:

Trees and shrubs

h Continue to plant deciduous trees and shrubs, weather permitting. Apply a 2- to 4-inch layer of mulch (shredded bark, shredded leaves or compost) to root zones of newly planted trees and shrubs, being careful to pull mulch 4 inches away from trunks. Mulch keeps soil warmer longer, helping new plants to become established.

h Continue to water trees and shrubs, especially evergreens, until the ground is completely frozen.

h Protect hybrid tea, floribunda, multiflora, climbing, miniature and newly planted roses late this month or following several days of 20-degree weather. Mound 12 to 18 inches of lightweight peat moss or composted manure at base of roses. If desired, further protect plants by making chicken wire cages stuffed with leaves. .

h Prune hybrid tea roses back to knee height. Prune other types of roses, as needed, early next spring before growth resumes.

h Consider making burlap windbreaks 12 inches from sensitive and newly planted shrubs to buffer damaging winter winds.

Flowers

h Cut to the ground all remaining dried perennial material not intended for winter interest. Add to compost pile, if free from disease or insect problems.

Lawns

h Fertilize lawns for a final time early this month with a slow-release organic product high in nitrogen. This nitrogen application will help lawns retain green color longer and color up faster in early spring.

Edible plants

h After a hard frost, remove all dead plant material and add to compost pile. Till 1 to 2 inches of organic material, composted manure or shredded leaf mold into garden soil. Add granulated sulfur according to package directions.

Houseplants

h Plants brought indoors might exhibit temporary "transplant shock" in their new environment because of changes in light and temperature. Artificial lights can help plants that require full sun.

h Avoid overwatering houseplants and cut back on fertilizer except for plants like miniature roses or geraniums that are intended to bloom all winter.

h Furnaces often reduce humidity levels inside homes. Humidifiers and pebble-filled trays partially filled with water help plants that prefer humidity.

h Continue to fertilize orchids with very diluted orchid fertilizer until they set flower buds. Monitor foliage for scorching caused by exposure to direct southern sun.

h Plant pretreated bulbs like amaryllis, paperwhite narcissus and others for holiday blooms.

h Hardy bulbs not planted outside can be potted in soilless mix, watered well, sealed in a plastic bag and forced for indoor blooming. Major bulbs need 12 to 14 weeks of cold storage (refrigerator without ripening fruit, cold frame or garage where temperature remains between 35 and 40 degrees); little bulbs require a few weeks less. Move pots to a bright but cool room (55 to 65 degrees) for two weeks when yellow sprouts emerge. As flower buds develop, bring pots into warmer room with indirect light and water as needed.