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Nutmeg holds its own in a medley of spices

After years of working with spices, nutmeg remains my favorite. I could tell you it's the multi-dimensional aroma that piques my interest, but that's only the beginning.

Grated fresh, ground nutmeg boasts both textural and flavor diversity. Unlike other spices that meld into a recipe leaving only colored and flavored tracks, nutmeg deposits spicy specks into finished desserts.

Within those spicy specks lie nutmeg's irresistible appeal. Once on the taste buds, ground nutmeg releases a gentle, warming sensation perfectly balanced between zesty and bland -- just enough heat to spark interest without setting off the fire alarm.

Armed with all this power, nutmeg would appear to be a spotlight spice; yet, to the contrary, ground nutmeg plays the role of a supporting ingredient. This spice leaves its flavor footprint without getting lost in the shadow of other spices.

What we know as nutmeg begins as the oval seed of an evergreen tree native to the Molucca spice islands of Indonesia and cultivated extensively in Grenada. During processing, the outer membrane of the nutmeg seed is removed and later becomes mace. After drying, the seed opens to reveal the nutmeg inside.

Culinary folklore tells a few spicy tales about nutmeg. Prized by the Romans for its unique aroma, ground nutmeg burned as incense for religious and regal celebrations. Centuries of warfare by the Europeans ensued for control of the Indonesian islands and valuable spice trade.

In the 15th century the nutmeg frenzy reached fever pitch. Treasured as an aphrodisiac, ground nutmeg became the rage among young aristocrats; nutmeg graters joined the ranks of fashionable accessories.

The reported aphrodisiac properties can be traced to the myristicin in nutmeg. Myristicin gives nutmeg its signature flavor and warmth. Used in the small amounts listed in recipes, nutmeg is harmless. However, intentional consumption of the spice in large amounts (a pungent teaspoon or so) can be toxic and produce hallucinations.

Today's recipe for Spiced Apples in Cider offers a simple take on a favorite fall dessert. Fresh apples bake in a medley of cinnamon and nutmeg. Apple cider enhances the fresh fruit, adding a balancing splash of tartness.

Brown sugar is the sweet of choice here, providing deep caramel notes. More than a sweetener, brown sugar preserves the shape of the fruit while baking. Cooked in plain water, apples quickly turn to sauce.

A few dabs of unsalted butter give a much-needed savory smoothness to the dish. Allow the apples to cool slightly, but serve warm to the table.

Topped with frozen yogurt, whipped cream or ice cream, this dessert satisfies the taste buds as much as a fresh-baked apple pie. No one will miss the crust.

Spiced Apples in Cider

1 pound (about 3 medium) tart apples, such as Granny Smith

1 pound (about 3 medium) sweet apples, such as Golden Delicious

½ cup light brown sugar, packed

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon ground nutmeg

½ cup apple cider

1 tablespoon unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

Heat oven to 350 degrees. Lightly grease a 9-by-13-inch baking dish. Set aside.

Peel and core apples; cut into ½-inch slices and toss together in large mixing bowl. Set aside.

In small bowl stir brown sugar, cinnamon and nutmeg together until evenly combined; sprinkle over apples in bowl and stir to completely coat.

Spoon apples evenly into prepared dish. Pour apple cider over apples. Dot apples evenly with butter pieces. Bake 30-35 minutes until apples are just tender. Cool 5 minutes in pan before serving. Cover with foil to keep apples warm.

Serves eight.

Baker's hint: For intense sweetness, use only Golden Delicious apples.

Nutrition values per serving: 90 calories, 2 g fat (1 g saturated), 20 g carbohydrates, 2 g fiber, trace amount protein, 4 mg cholesterol, 6 mg sodium.

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