Trip to Ireland sparks fascination with its past

Being neither Irish nor Catholic I never gave Ireland much thought. When my husband suggested a vacation there, I was amenable, but had no particular expectations. Perhaps that's why I was so bowled over by the place -- particularly its history.

Arguably the hey-day of the Irish began in the 5th century when monks retreated west from Europe, in the face of pillaging tribes after the fall of the Roman Empire. From then until the 10th century, Ireland was the heart of Christian civilization. Many monasteries were built then that became centers of learning and writing.

The monasteries attracted the attention of the Vikings, who began to plunder and pillage. No sooner had the Vikings been routed in 1014, than the Normans from Wales arrived in 1169, beginning the English domination of Ireland.

The Normans intermarried with the Irish and became powerful and prosperous, which attracted the attention of England's King Henry VIII. He demanded that all lands be deeded to him. He re-granted the lands back to those who would be loyal to England, pay taxes, and not marry or fraternize with the Irish, the seed of problems in Northern Ireland over the last 40 years.

Oliver Cromwell was particularly ruthless to the Irish between 1649 and 1652. After Cromwell's Irish siege, any lands remaining in the hands of Catholics were re-granted to Protestants. This is how he repaid his soldiers and benefactors in England during the civil war.

In 1690, the Battle of the Boyne resulted in the Treaty of Limerick, forcing 14,000 Irish into exile. England imposed penal laws that were enforced until 1829. Other repressive measures included prohibitions against owning land, practicing the Catholic religion, being educated or running for office.

England did, however, invest in Ireland. The beautiful Georgian architecture that characterizes much of Dublin dates from this period. Other English legacies are the Irish legal and educational systems.

More political upheaval came with The Great Rebellion of 1798 against the English; 50,000 died. The Irish parliament was dissolved and Ireland became part of the United Kingdom, although Catholics were not represented in the English House of Commons.

The Potato Famine of 1845 precipitated the deaths of a million people and another million immigrated, primarily to America. In 1922, the Irish Free State was created -- the birth of the modern Republic of Ireland.

When Ireland joined the European Union in 1973, it was considered the least developed European nation. Money was invested in roads and other infrastructure. Favorable trade agreements and other measures have enabled Ireland to become a net contributor within the EU.

While in Ireland, I marveled at the charm of Ireland and the way the Irish have embraced, savored and protected their heritage. It's a national character given to conversation and laughter. Was it all those years of being ruled by others that made the Irish cherish their Irishness and preserve Irish culture despite invaders, other imposed cultures and inevitable intermarriage?

What will happen now that Ireland is a member of the EU? Immigration into Ireland has dramatically increased, and the economic boom that began in the 1990s continues. What will success do to Irish culture and heritage? It's withstood thousands of years of repression and remained intact. But can it continue to be recognizable in the face of continued economic success?

I have come away from Ireland with a desire to read and know more. Here's my beginning reading list provided by our tour leader:

• "The Course of Irish History," by T.W. Moody

• "Irish Trilogy," by Walter Macken

• Any books by Maeve Binchy, Roddy Doyle or Frank McCourt.