Riesling on the rebound among wine-drinkers
People are talking about Riesling again.
True, they may mispronounce the grape (it's REE-sling) and even some restaurants even may misspell it Reisling.
Other people may say, "But Riesling is so sweeeeet!" To which I say, "Compared to what?"
True, Riesling can ripen to honey-like sweetness, but drier styles rival perfectly ripe fruit -- lime, passion fruit, nectarine, pineapple. This balance of beguiling flavor and refreshing acidity makes for easy drinking that complements a wide range of cuisine.
So, after a 20-year lull, Riesling is on the re-bound. According to Wine Business Month, imported Riesling is up 155 percent since 2003.
Riesling is a willing traveler with roots from Alsace (France) to New Zealand, but the international standard (and this palate's preference) is German Riesling, a category that brings its own set of pronunciation challenges. Here's a primer in the language and flavors of German Riesling:
Qualitatswein (KVAHL-ee-tates-vine) is what it sounds like, a "quality wine." In cold-climate Germany, where the growing season may not last 100 days, "quality" means ripeness. Grapes designated for Qualitatswein ripen sufficiently to ferment, but only with help from added sugar. Qualitatswein must be region-specific, such as the Liebfraumilch designation, (grown only in Rheinhessen, Pfalz, Nahe or Rheingau.)
In the 1980s, Liebfraumilch accounted for one of every four wine bottles imported into the U.S. But limiting your exploration of Riesling to Liebfraumilch is like limiting your exploration of music to "The Itsy Bitsy Spider."
For more complexity, explore Qualitatswein mit Pradikat (KVAHL-ee-tates-vine mit PRAD-ee-kaht), or QmP, meaning "quality wine with special attribute." No added sugar is allowed, but wines may contain unfermented grape juice. One of six Pradikats will appear on the label:
Kabinett (KAH-bee-nett) wines are produced from ripe grapes, yielding flavors similar to lime, green apple or under-ripe pear.
Spatlese (SCHPAET-lay-zuh) means "late harvest," with extra-ripe grapes producing flavors similar to a baked apple, ripe peach or pear.
Auslese (OWZE-lay-zuh) means "selected harvest," with specific grape clusters chosen for maximum ripeness, yielding candied apple, baked pineapple or peach flavors.
The final categories occur under extraordinary conditions, made possible only by extraordinary vintages.
Beerenauslese (BEAR-en-OWZE-lay-zuh), or simply BA, means "selected harvest of individual grapes," with individually picked, over-ripe grapes yielding flavors of honey-soaked raisins. BA may also be affected by edelfaule (EI-del-FOUL-leh), a "noble rot" that sips water from each grape, concentrating precious drops of pure sugar and acid.
Trockenbeerenauslese (TROH-ken-BEAR-en-OWZE-lay-zuh), or TBA grapes are nurtured throughout the growing season against pests, careless pickers and disastrous profit-loss statements until they shrivel through time and edelfaule. Each raisined grape yields about one drop of pure sugar and acid.
Eiswein (ICE-wine) grapes succumb to winter's caress. Frozen grapes are pressed, separating frozen water from pure sugar and acid. Eiswein may or may not be affected by edelfaule.
Turn to your trusted merchant for guidance in the wide range of German Riesling on the retail shelves. Two exceptional Qualitatsweins are Saint M (from the Pfalz region) and Clean Slate (from Mosel-Saar-Ruwer), both about $12.
More sophisticated styles are produced by Balthasar Ress, J.J. Prum, Graf von Schonborn, Ernst Loosen and Georg Albrecht, ranging from $12 on up, depending on designation.
In the days before processed sugar, sweet Riesling was worth its weight in gold, pairing well with suckling pig, roast goose and unctuous blue-veined cheese.
If your personal chef has the night off, try Kabinett or Spatlese styles with the following foods:
• Meat, seafood or poultry, especially with fruit or sweeter sauce. Riesling finds a common denominator of flavor with turkey with cranberries, honey-glazed ham and Asian preparations such as Thai shrimp with coconut milk.
• Spicy cuisine. Riesling's fruit protects the palate from the three-alarm blaze of Cajun and plays off fruit chutney served with Indian curry. Try it with Southeast Asian and other spicy cuisines.
• Oily foods. Riesling's acidity weaves through the oils in fried chicken, egg rolls, sausages and wursts.
Reserve Auslese and sweeter styles to complement dessert or enjoy as dessert in themselves.
Ross' choice
Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve
2002
Trefethen Vineyards
Napa Valley, Calif.
• Suggested retail and availability: About $90 at fine wine shops
In 1973, John and Janet Trefethen built a winery in an out-of-the-way valley north of San Francisco called Napa. Their wines, grown from family-owned vineyards and vinified with Old World tradition, marry vibrancy, appeal and complexity. Adding to a long list of international awards, this richly textured, classy Cabernet recently received Decanter magazine's top honor as Best Red Bordeaux Varietal in America. Enjoy this American classic with succulent meats, especially cuts prepared with thyme, peppercorns or caramelized onions, or cellar and taste history decades from now.