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More the merrier

The saying goes that too much of a good thing is bad news. And maybe that's true, except when it comes to Irish pubs.

Even though pubs seem to be springing up all over the 'burbs, every one of these new establishments is a welcome addition to the area.

Tommy Nevin's, an Evanston staple that recently opened a new location in Naperville, is no exception to that rule.

Motif: Yes, Nevin's is a pub, but it's definitely not some tiny little hole in the wall. The middle entrance, with it's high arched ceiling, features leather chairs and a relaxing fireplace by which patrons may enjoy a drink or wait for the next available table. Past the leather chairs, you have a few choices: go left to one of the many tables and booths, turn even further left to the outdoor patio or just make a bee line right to the bar.

Nevin's still feels new. You can almost smell the new wood floors, booths, double-sided bar, tables and wall paneling. The light fixtures keep the place well-lit, as do the large windows aligning the front wall. A nice amount of flat-screen televisions adorns the bar walls, and if that isn't enough to distract for you, darts and a couple of arcade machines should do the trick.

The back corner of Nevin's sit-down side includes an enclosed library room featuring a table, books and a television (of course!). The patio also has a lot of promise, mostly due to a bar that's just steps away. No need for the waitress to make her way to the other side of the building for your drinks; you're a busy person.

Crowd: A good mix is represented at Nevin's. Earlier in the night, a variety of ages, young and old, can be found in the dining area. Over on the bar side, the age range varies from people in their 20s and beyond. Nothing too out of the ordinary here, just a good group of folks looking to eat, drink and have some fun.

Service: As with any new bar, the kinks are still being worked out. The bartender was having some difficulty with the cash register, and our waitress forgot we existed for a half hour. But, it's hard to stay mad at the dark-plaid skirt-clad waitresses in knee-high black socks and black T-shirts.

Sounds: On this night, the sound of cheers and grunts echoed through Tommy Nevin's as Bears fans watched the game on the many televisions. As far as music goes, I spotted an online jukebox, so who knows what you'll get on any given night. Also, don't be surprised if there's live music on the weekends.

Liquid Consumption: Nevin's boasts an above-average beer selection that's close to a 50-50 domestic-imports ratio. Pints range in size from 16 ounces to 20 ounces, and a fair amount of bottles are also represented, as well as wine, whiskeys and mixed drinks. My only gripe is that they called a Long Island a "foo-foo drink." Foo-foo? C'mon, there's a lot of liquor in Long Islands!

Food: The menu features the usual assortment of soups, salads, sandwiches, burgers and steaks, not to mention pub grub like corned beef and Swiss and Reuben and Irish sandwiches, which they refer to as toasties. On top of all this, there's a weekend brunch, a dessert list and a children's menu.

Parking: A medium-sized restaurant lot that on this night was so packed that people were parallel parked in the back. The nearby stores' lots may have to suffice on those crowded nights.

Bottom line: Sure, Nevin's isn't single-handedly reinventing Irish pubs, and there's nothing wrong with that. But they manage to put enough of a twist on the old classic to promote our quick return. Pubs have a winning formula that you wouldn't want to mess with. What people want most is a friendly place to go grab a drink and enjoy themselves. And on that basis, Nevin's gets the job done.

Tommy Nevin's

Where: 3032 English Rows, Naperville, (630) 428-4242

Hours: Bar: 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. Friday and Saturday; lunch: 11 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. every day; dinner: 4:30 to 10 p.m. Sunday and Monday, 4:30 to 11 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, 4:30 p.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday; late-night menu: 10 p.m. to 1 a.m. Monday through Thursday, 11 p.m. to 2 a.m. Friday and Saturday

Web: tommynevinspubs.com

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