Drink in Dublin's delights and diplomacy
When my good friend Matt urged me to visit what he called "the incredible Guinness Storehouse at St. James' Gate Brewery" during a trip to Ireland, I scowled.
"You know I hate beer," I reminded him.
"Ah, but Guinness is not beer," he retorted. "If you must, think of it as a beer milkshake," he added.
I still wasn't convinced.
Then he told me that the venue, which bowed in 2000, is like a great museum that includes an incredible rooftop bar where you can see all of Dublin.
So, because I am a big fan of fantastic vistas, I took Matt up on his suggestion. During a lull in my work itinerary, I headed over to the former fermentation plant to see what my friend had been raving about.
Apparently, Matt is not its only fan. The Guinness Storehouse (www.guinness-storehouse.com) is Ireland's No. 1 visitor attraction. After experiencing it, I know that fact is for good reason -- even if drinking is not an imperative part of your life.
The architecture alone was enough to keep me interested. Built in 1670, the imposing structure was the first steel framed, multi-story building in the British Isles to be built in the Chicago style. Inside, an expansive exhibition space was erected around a huge glass atrium.
Touring takes about four hours. Besides learning the history of Guinness through innovative, interactive exhibits, the Storehouse offers a retrospective of its famous advertising campaigns and an amazing Guinness memorabilia display.
The tour was so fascinating I almost forgot I would be expected to taste Guinness. I had promised Matt I would do that after he said it would be very rude not to when visiting the drink's namesake outpost.
To ease into the situation, I bit into some roasted barley, which reminded me of a coffee bean. Then it was time for a true tasting. I did my duty by taking a sip. To say I enjoyed it would be incorrect, although the experience wasn't terrible.
After that, our group learned how to draw a proper pint, courtesy of Guinness' master brewer. This was quite the serious ceremony, taking a little skill and a lot of luck. After being somewhat successful on my second try, I bravely knocked back a big gulp of the black stuff. I had to admit that taste was intriguing.
"I'm not surprised," said the master brewer. "Most people who come here have never tried Guinness, but if they stick with it, they often do acquire a taste that cannot be denied."
Before I could protest, it was time to go where the bar is literally raised. We arrived via the Storehouse's high-speed elevator at Gravity, Dublin's tallest pub at the top of the seven-story Guinness Storehouse, with awesome city views.
As I scanned familiar scenery, I realized that even though I had been to this thriving city many times, like with my hesitance to try the national drink, I had not truly delved into some important aspects of Irish life. By doing so, I was given a better cultural understanding of the country (and I had a lot more fun, too).
That said, following are other worthy ideas on how to immerse yourself in Dublin:
• Take a dance class. I did just that at the Temple Bar Gaelchultur (www.gaelchultur.com), the city's cultural center. I learned from a talented young hoofer who was insistent that even the most senior in our group (me) get up to try the traditional jig. I can't say my performance was magnificent, but I did learn the basic steps, which I continue to practice in private.
• Learn a bit of Gaelic. I did that, too, at the Temple Bar Gaelchultur and by way of singing along with our teacher. She was ever encouraging, despite the fact that our class did nothing less than desecrate traditional Irish songs.
• Get entertained for free. Some of the world's best buskers work Dublin's famed Grafton Street, so stop by and listen to a child protégé playing the violin or a boy band emulating the Beatles. On this pedestrian-only thoroughfare, all sorts of talented street performers try out their acts, including belly dancing, fire-eating and bagpipe playing.
• Get out and see the countryside. I did, with the help of tour guide extraordinaire Ciaran Ganter, a fun-loving bloke who definitely possesses the Irish gift of gab. As half owner of the family business (www.ganters.ie), this well-versed tourism expert showed us the Wicklow Mountains, the Boyne Valley and, most impressively, the prehistoric site of the Megalithic Passage Tomb at Newgrange, built about 3200 B.C. and older than Stonehenge and the Egyptian pyramids of Giza.
For all the amazing sights we saw thanks to tour guide Ciaran, what he taught us that his father taught him really stuck with me the most. In one of many conversations, we explored the definition of diplomacy. As Ciaran quoted, "Diplomacy is when you tell someone where to go and they look forward to the trip."
Now that's a novel way to force someone to appreciate the world of travel!