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Barging through the French countryside

Q. I am in the midst of planning a barging trip in France for next fall and am so confused about which area would be best for side trips to do wine tasting and enjoy the locals and countryside. I have looked on the Internet for barges and have found myself overwhelmed. Do you have any hints as to how to check out the barging companies?

A. You're in for a treat. Barging on the Napoleonic canals and ballooning over the countryside in France was a trip of a lifetime for me, and I'm sure it will be for you as well.

Napoleon, in the early 1800s, was responsible for constructing a network of these canals in his vision of a unified Europe. His vision was not to be, but the canals stayed and today they provide some 600 miles of pleasurable cruising through France's beautiful countryside. The trips are available with a number of companies.

My trip was with French Country Waterways Ltd., and of the four itineraries available, Burgundy-Cote d'Or region, right in the heart of France, was my choice.

Rolling hills, vineyards that produce the finest Burgundy wine, pastoral scenes of cattle, horses and sheep grazing and tranquil villages slipped by as the barge made its way along the peaceful landscape. As we approached, the lockkeeper (a retired veteran or his widow) cranked the lock open by hand, waving adieu to us as we glided through.

Bicycles were kept on deck for riding along the canal tow paths or for exploring villages. One day was spent visiting the vineyards and cellars, tasting the wines of the Cote d'Or and Cote de Nuits. Another was spent touring such medieval towns as Beaune, Macon, Tournus and Dijon, home of the famous mustard, while the barge's crew shopped for fresh vegetables and seafood in the town markets for our evening meal.

However, the piece de resistance for me was hot air ballooning over the magnificent Burgundian countryside. The balloon traveled about six kilometers with no sound other than an occasional whoosh of the gas burner, dogs barking at the balloon's shadow or chickens squawking as the balloon dips over a farmer's yard.

Our balloonist brought us down with only a slight bump in the middle of a wheat field, opened a bottle of champagne right there and we toasted our first balloon ride, a tradition in France. Meanwhile, the rest of our party -- waiting their turn -- was in a van chasing the colorful striped balloon and watching for its landing.

Go to www.frenchcountrywaterways.com or phone (800) 222-1236 to check the various itineraries available, specifics on the barge fleet and other important information.

Also, see http://us.franceguide.com for other useful data on France.

Send your questions at leastsix weeks prior to travel toMadelyn Merwin in care ofTravel, Daily Herald, P.O. Box280, Arlington Heights, IL60006, or e-maildpmerwin@sbcglobal.net.

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