Food becomes an expression of his life, love

As executive chef at Naperville's Tessa's Famiglia e Amici, Michael Fusano always keeps an eye out for inspiration, whether he's strolling through the local farmers market or drawing on a memory of his grandparents' olive tree farm in California's San Fernando Valley.

Fusano, a Chicago resident and graduate of Le Cordon Bleu's culinary program in Pasadena, Calif., lives by the belief that food is an expression of life and love. It is this passion and dedication that drives him to create fresh and flavorful dishes reflecting the best of traditional and progressive Italian cuisine.

How did you get into cooking? As a child, I always helped my mom out in the kitchen and she made the best food. Nothing comes close to Mom's cooking. She made some out-of-this-world casseroles and really great French toast. I also helped my grandmother cook around holidays and that meant weddings, funerals, Christmas, birthdays and more.

What is your style? I was trained in everything at Le Cordon Bleu, and I am half-French-Canadian and half-Italian. I like to call my cooking progressive American because while I include traditional dishes on my menu, I like to spice things up a bit and change recipes around.

What was it like on the olive farm as a child? It was a lot of fun. I'd play and walk the orchards with my grandfather, who still owns most of the orchards in central California. He taught me how things grow and what to look for in a good olive.

How did your experiences on the farm influence your cooking? Growing up around a farm taught me to always eat fresh. In that situation, you eat what you raise. When I create menus for Tessa's, I always use ingredients in the peak of their season. In America we can usually get any item, any time of the year, but that does not mean it's going to taste the best. A chef is measured by the quality of his ingredients.

What's your favorite comfort food? I love sushi, and am more of a traditionalist. I prefer sashimi and nigiri over rolls. Other than that I'd have to say that Mom's cooking wins hands down.

Are there any foods you don't like? Well, there isn't really anything that I won't try once. If I don't like it, I'll usually still eat it just so I can understand it.

What are your most trustworthy ingredients? I never work without lemons and lemon juice, sea salts and volcanic salts, olive oil and soy sauce. You'd be surprised how much soy sauce can add to a dish, I know it's not something typically found in Italian cooking, but it's great.

What is your favorite olive oil? Well, my family's of course (Fusano Olive Oil), though I only use it for special occasions. It is extremely gourmet.

Do you spend time outside of the kitchen? The nice thing about Tessa's is that I have a whole team of chefs, which means now and then I have time to go out and meet my guests. It's nice to talk with everyone, to tend to allergy concerns and find out how everyone is enjoying their meals.

What do you do on your downtime? First of all, I like eating. Other than that, I love the outdoors and music and like to spend some time alone now and then, playing guitar and percussion and writing. I also like to fish and visit the beach.

Tell us about this recipe. Prosciutto Wrapped Shrimp with Avocado Mustard Fondue is one of my signature dishes. In a week, I probably go through about 100 pounds of shrimp thanks to this one. It's very easy to put together and tastes great. Be sure to not overwrap the shrimp. One piece of prosciutto will do. Any more will make the dish too salty and overpower the other flavors.

Prosciutto Wrapped Shrimp with Avocado Mustard Fondue

2 ripe avocados

2tablespoons fresh lime juice, about 2 limes

1½ tablespoons of Dijon mustard

1tablespoon chopped fresh Italian parsley

Pinch of salt

Pinch of pepper

20 large shrimp, uncooked, tails attached

1tablespoon light soy sauce

1tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

20 sprigs Italian parsley

10 slices prosciutto

Cut avocados in half. Remove the pits and pulp from the skin. Discard skin and pit. Place pulp in a large mixing bowl and mash the avocado with a fork until it becomes a smooth paste. Add the juice of the fresh squeezed limes and mix well. Add the Dijon mustard and parsley and mix until all ingredients are well incorporated. Season with salt and pepper to taste and mix well. Set aside in the refrigerator until ready to use.

Peel and devein the shrimp, leaving the tails still attached. Add shrimp to a mixing bowl and toss with soy sauce and olive oil, until well coated. Set aside.

Cut each prosciutto slice in half lengthwise and place each piece flat on cutting board. Place a one sprig of parsley and one shrimp on top of each slice of prosciutto. Roll the shrimp with the prosciutto. Make sure that they are rolled tightly so they don't unravel when being cooked.

Place a tablespoon-sized dollop of avocado mustard fondue on a serving plate where each shrimp is going to go. Sauté shrimp rolls in a pan with a little bit of olive oil over the stove until golden brown and shrimp are cooked all the way through.

Remove shrimp from pan and place each on top of the avocado fondue. Add more fondue if desired. Garnish the dish with parsley leaves and a few cherry tomatoes. Serve immediately.

Serves four.

Chef's note: Bacon can also be used in place of prosciutto.

Chef Mike Fusano, Tessa's Famiglia e Amici, Naperville