Water heaters with plastic liners can help
Q. I have a recurring problem with my water heaters rotting out after only about a year. I tested the water and it is only slightly acidic. I also made sure the PSI was not too high. Would getting an on-demand water heater stop this from happening so often?
A. Water resides full-time within both types of water heaters, tank-type and on-demand or tankless. Inside a conventional tank-type water heater, the water is stored in a glass-lined steel tank. This type can easily rust.
In a tankless unit, the water is stored in the solid-copper heating coils (copper tubing). Although the copper tubing will not corrode nearly as fast as the steel liner in a tank-type unit, the copper will eventually break down if the water is highly acid.
We suggest that you look into one of the new water heaters with a solid plastic liner. Plastic is not affected by acidity or alkalinity and will outlast both the conventional tank type and the new tankless type.
As a point of interest, a conventional water heater can be made to last forever if its sacrificial anode is replaced every couple or three years (this fitting is a rod that "sacrifices" itself by attracting rust that would otherwise attack the tank; it costs about $15 and replacing it is a do-it-yourself job). Also, it is wise to flush the tank -- to get rid of any corrosive debris -- at least once a year.
Q. We renovated our kitchen and had a granite countertop installed. About a week after the installation, we noticed a hairline crack running across the top. Our installers offered to give us $1,000 back and told us they could polish it to disguise the crack. Is this a good deal?
A. Much like glass, when granite starts to crack, it will never stop. Though it may take some time, you will eventually end up with two pieces of granite. Whether the problem is an original flaw in the granite or one that occurred during the installation process, you have the right to get what you paid for: a granite countertop without cracks.
Talk to the fabricator about getting the cracked piece replaced -- that is, unless you want a cracked top and a thousand bucks!
Q. I got carried away cleaning a brass antique with lemon and salt, and now it's rusty. How can I clean off the rust?
A. First, your antique is not solid brass -- it is brass-plated. Solid brass doesn't rust.
What is rusting is the iron or steel below your brass plating. The rust can be eliminated with most rust removers. Just about anything that contains phosphoric acid will do the trick, even some concrete cleaners.
After you have thoroughly removed the rust, be sure to coat the item with a coat of light machine oil. Sewing machine oil is great for this purpose.