Don't let seamless gutters confuse you
Q. How do contractors get to go around advertising and selling "seamless" gutters? I recently replaced my old "seamed" gutters because they leaked at all the seams, especially at the most critical spots in my house like over the front stairs, which freeze in the winter.
The new gutters are not seamless, but have 90-degree miters, where the two cut straight pieces fit into accommodating "seams," which must be sealed like any other seam. The seam over my front stairs leaked within two weeks of installation. I think this concept of "seamless" is totally bogus. If this is not a seam, what is it?
Via e-mail
A. The term "seamless gutters" means that the straight runs are seamless. There is no way to avoid a connector when there are inside and outside corners, however the joints should be sealed with the appropriate gutter-sealant compound. The installers should be called back to seal the fittings, as there is no excuse for them to leak so soon after installation.
Q. You have recommended this product before, and I looked all over for it in the Pittsburgh area. I even wrote to Arm & Hammer but have not heard back from them. I read that pH Plus (used for pools) is the same chemical and that it can be used as a substitute for the Super Washing Soda. I purchased a 5-pound container for less than $7 at Wal-Mart. Now I need to know how to use it for a slow drain. Do I mix this powder with a bucket of water? How much? Hot or cold water? Thanks so much for all your help. I enjoy reading your column each week.
Pittsburgh, Pa.
A. Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda should be available in the detergent aisle of your supermarket. The directions to keep drains clear are on the side of the box. I cannot tell whether or not the product you bought is of the same concentration or greater. However, here are the directions on the box of Super Washing Soda: "To help keep traps and drains open, dissolve half a cup per gallon of warm water. Run hot water down drain, add SUPER WASHING SODA solution then flush with hot water. DO NOT USE FOR BLOCKED DRAINS."
Q. Did you recently talk about an odor killer named Knock Out? If so, can you send me information about the manufacturer and where I can find it. I threw away the article that mentioned it and cannot find it in stores nor on the Internet. I hope you can help me. We seriously need that product.
Via e-mail
A. I did, indeed. Knock Out by PTB Enterprises of Michigan is a remarkable product. Here is a rerun of my earlier answer: The distributor told me that the product is all natural, containing laboratory-designed enzymes that seek out and destroy molecules that cause odors. He suggested a simple test: Place a small amount in a glass container on the bathroom vanity top, and it will remove any odor in the room. I put a jigger's worth in a small votive-candle glass, and I was very impressed; there were no bathroom odors.
It works by evaporating and seeking out the odor-causing molecules, which the enzymes then destroy -- no spraying needed, the liquid just sits in the little glass container, and it does the job! Another suggested use is to carry a small spray bottle in your car to destroy the odor of gasoline on your hands after pumping gas. There are many more uses that you can learn about on PTB's Web site at www.ptbent.com. The product is completely biodegradable and harmless to people, pets, fabrics, etc. You can order Knock Out at the Web site or by calling PTB Enterprises' toll-free number, (866) 478-2368.
Q. Last year, a painter sanded our cedar-shake house. It was very labor-intensive and expensive. He then put linseed oil on it. I have read in your column that this is not the right thing to do. Some areas of cedar are now turning black, and I can't hire someone to come again and I am not able to sand the area myself. Is there anything I can put on this -- like a bleaching agent -- to prevent it from getting worse.
Via e-mail
A. Linseed oil is mildew spores' favorite food; this is what is staining your shakes. Try spraying the shakes with a solution of equal parts fresh Clorox bleach and warm water, and let it do its work without rinsing it off. You may need to repeat this several times until you get the shakes back to their natural color.
In my experience, the best finish to apply to cedar shakes and shingles (roofs and walls), as well as clapboards, trim, etc., is Amteco TWP. You can buy it in ICI and some independent paint stores or directly from Amteco by calling the toll-free number (800) 969-4811 or by visiting www.twp-amteco.com.
Q. We recently had a bat appear in our second-floor bedroom. Our screens are all tightly fitting, so the only way we think it could get in is through the vent fan in the attached bathroom. The various fans vent into the crawl space above the ceiling.
Needless to say, this is not an experience we would care to repeat, so do you have any suggestions on how to prevent this in the future?
Via e-mail
A. Check the vent jacks; they are probably louvered vinyl and may either be stuck in the open position or have broken flaps, which happens all the time with that type of wall jack. This is why I always recommend aluminum wall jacks, preferably with a small spring that keeps the flap closed when the fan is not running. If this is the problem, have the faulty jacks changed.
Q. What is the best way to lower the humidity in a basement? Mine is quite damp (60 percent to 65 percent humidity). My house was built in 2001 with poured-concrete walls. The basement walls are insulated with 4-inch fiberglass batts and clear poly vapor barrier, heat and domestic hot water by oil-fired hydronic heating.
Fairfax, Vt.
A. The best way to reduce the relative humidity in a basement is to use a quality dehumidifier with a built-in humidity control. To buy the right size, measure the cubic footage of the space and match it to the unit you plan to purchase. Place it in a central area if you are able to check it and empty it regularly. Or if you prefer not to have to deal with emptying it -- and you have a floor drain or a laundry tub -- place it where it can drain into them.
If your basement is divided into separate rooms, you'll have to leave the doors open for the dehumidifier to be effective throughout. I assume you do not store firewood, dry clothes on a rack or do anything else that adds considerable moisture to your basement, like opening windows in summer.
Windows and exterior doors should be kept closed to keep damp, outside air out. Open them on clear, dry days only.
© 2007, United Feature Syndicate, Inc.