Popular Chianti has experienced many highs and lows

Of the bajillion wines ever made, how did Chianti become our most familiar?

You can point to Chianti's brand extension, developed centuries before the first marketing MBA.

There's entry-level Chianti, grown throughout the region, called normale (normal) or giovane (day-to-day). Next are seven subregions, including Classico (the original region), as well as lesser-known Colli Fiorentini and Colli Senesi, each offering distinct regional flavor. For aficianados, there's riserva, reserved in barrel and bottle for extended maturation and (in theory) complexity.

There's even "California Chianti," not Chianti at all but a creation of Italian immigrants searching for a catchy name for wines from their brave new vineyards, mentioned in this article only to note that it was Chianti -- not Barbaresco, Barolo or any other Italian region -- that was chosen for this homage.

You could argue that Chianti's fame stems from the region itself, claimed by some as the most beautiful in Italy, with its panorama of steep hills, pine forests, olive groves and vineyards. Located in Tuscany -- once Europe's financial center -- Chianti has supplied wine for the power brokers of church, state and culture since the 1300s.

I say that Chianti's fame can be credited to the inherent nature of its growers, an artistic bunch who thrive on creative tension and will not leave well enough alone.

Says Giovanni Nencini of Cantine Da Vinci (based in Leonardo's hometown): "People say our Chianti is not 'typical.' We put a lot of work into our vineyards, we pick the ripest grapes, we add Merlot and Syrah, all for fresh, juicy wines that people enjoy. If this is not 'typical,' it's time to change what 'typical Chianti' is."

Medieval documents describe Chianti as white, but by the 1700s, it had evolved to a red blend based on the Canaiolo grape. In 1872, Bettino Ricasoli published a new recipe for Classico, which was widely adopted: Sangiovese for strength, Canaiolo for softness and white Trebbiano and Malvasia for freshness. In 1932, a government commission defined Chianti as "not a superior table wine ..." and extended the region to favor quantity over quality. The egalitarian philosophy was intended to stimulate economy by associating lesser zones with finer zones, but it backfired. Overall quality, reputation and sales plummeted.

By the 1960s, winemakers had had enough. "Keep your Chianti 'brand,'" they said. "We'll produce the wine we want and name it what we want. We'll make it and the customers will come."

Come they did. With the moniker "Super Tuscan," producers introduced Sangiovese and Cabernet blends (Antinori's Tignanello); 100 percent Sangiovese, aged in French barrels (Montevertine's Le Pergole Torte) and more. But as producers channeled their finest grapes into Super Tuscan labels, Chianti suffered again.

In 1987, Classico vintners rallied with "Project Chianti Classico 2000." The goal: to re-establish Classico as one of the world's top-quality wines. More than 240 Sangiovese clones growing willy-nilly throughout the region were identified, some uprooted, others replanted in favorable sites. Meteorological stations were installed to analyze climate patterns. Viticultural studies were shared throughout the region.

Wine lovers are now enjoying the fruits of these labors in Chianti that offers concentrated flavors, pleasing tannin and refreshing acidity. But are producers satisfied? Undoubtedly not. And maybe that's the secret of Chianti's success: It always keeps its fans on their toes.

As you shop for Chianti, look for the excellent 2004 and 2001 vintages; avoid 2002. Here are some to try.

Chianti, Da Vinci: Flavors of ripe, red fruits with peppery accents. The addition of Merlot and Syrah adds plumpness and softens Sangiovese's angularity. (About $13.)

Chianti Colli Senesi, Casabianca: Fragrant and supple with pretty red fruit flavors. (About $14.) The estate has elegantly restored five 13th century farmhouses for vacationing within the Tuscan vineyard.

Chianti Colli Fiorentini, Lucignano: Intense aromas of black cherries and violets. Medium-bodied, with balanced tannin and acidity. (About $12.)

Chianti Classico Riserva, Il Poggio, Monsanto: Classic, both in location and production techniques. Il Poggio is made only in finest vintages. (About $60.)