Greek specialties, and a few surprises, abound at new Plateia
Plateia, a spiffy new Greek restaurant, recently opened on the Glenview-Des Plaines border, where it occupies premises previously home to Periyali Greek Taverna.
New management, a redecorated interior and an enticing menu of traditional Greek favorites as well as a sweet and savory crepe station are all part of the package.
The aptly named spacious newcomer bills itself as a Mediterranean kitchen and bar. Its moniker translates as “town square” — a central gathering place for feasts, celebrations and other major events. Overall seating capacity at this bustling venue is 240, while a seasonal patio accommodates an additional 140 customers.
Plateia's full-service bar is stocked with imported and domestic wines and the makings for cocktails. Eighteen craft beers are on tap and eight beers are available by the bottle, including Hillas Lager, a Greek lager.
Experienced chef Mario Kalampogias, who honed his culinary skills at the five-star Hilton Athens, tempts diners at Plateia with some tough choices. On the one hand are multiple hot and cold appetizers, salads, pastas and chargrilled dishes, and on the other such popular entrees as braised lamb, Grecian style free-range chicken with Greek-baked potatoes, pastichio, moussaka and pork marinated on a spit.
The lamb shank, a special of the day during a recent visit, sounded appealing.
But the possibility of creating a tailor-made dinner entirely from the appetizer list was too hard to resist.
Zucchini gets the royal treatment in the kolokithokeftedes starter featuring fried shredded zucchini fritters — five in all — paired with a mound of skordalia, an addictive mixture of whipped potato spiked with garlic and lemon with a liberal dose of olive oil.
Another standup course was the octapodi comprised of perfectly chargrilled Spanish octopus ($15) served in extra-virgin olive oil and with a wedge of lemon.
Hummus (traditional, jalapeño cilantro and roasted red pepper), tzatziki (Greek yogurt spread with cucumber and garlic) and taramasalata (Greek dip made with cod roe, potatoes and onion) will have diners reaching for the pita bread.
Still other possibilities include saganaki (pan-seared kefalotiri cheese), spanakopita (mini spinach pies) and black tiger shrimp sauteed in star anise, herbed tomato and feta sauce.
I recommend sharing the Horiatiki village salad, which includes heirloom tomatoes, cucumbers, green peppers, red onions, capers, feta and wheat rusks. Halfway through this dish we realized that the called-for kalamata olives were inadvertently omitted, a situation our helpful server quickly remedied.
For dessert you can't go wrong with ekmek, a made-in-house custard with walnuts, almonds and shredded phyllo pastry — the whole works topped with whip cream garnished with cinnamon, chopped pistachios and a drizzle of raspberry sauce.
Also on offer are six different dessert crepes, including those with a strawberry-and-Nutella filling and honey custard.
• Restaurant reviews are based on one anonymous visit. The Daily Herald does not publish reviews of restaurants it cannot recommend.
Plateia
9860 Milwaukee Ave., Glenview, (847) 296-2230, <a href="http://plateiachicago.com/">plateiachicago.com</a>
<b>Cuisine:</b> Greek favorites and a few surprises
<b>Setting:</b> Mediterranean kitchen and bar in the setting of a Greek town square
<b>Prices:</b> Small plates $7 to $15; entrees $12 to $30; desserts $6 to $9
<b>Hours:</b> 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. Friday and Saturday; 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. Sunday through Thursday
<b>Reservations:</b> Accepted
<b>Parking:</b> Free lot plus valet service