Italian faves on the menu at Cucina Bianchi

Some things in the food world have staying power. Classic Italian fare — all familiar, large-portioned and value-driven — is one of them. So, it's no wonder fans of shuttered Bimbo's in Palatine are happy to see family recipes resurrected at Cucina Bianchi in Elk Grove Village.

Located in an unassuming strip mall with little to attract one inside, this casual pizzeria features distressed walls hung with sparse wrought iron accoutrements. With a combination of tables and booths, wood-slat blinds and a buffet bar running the length of the dining room, it's a casual, no-frills joint with neighborhood and carryout appeal. At the same time, friendly, genuine service — not to mention ultra-affordable “date night” deals — provide incentives to dine in.

That aforementioned special — geared toward parties of two — was on offer when we visited on a Wednesday night. Coming complete with a starter, soup or salad, entree and dessert, it proved the most budget-friendly option on an already cost-conscious menu. So, we ran with it.

Meals kick off with a plate of fresh, lightly garlicky bruschetta specked with basil, followed a sturdy cup of vegetable-packed minestrone and a house salad that's chock-full of crunchy greens dressed in vinegary Italian dressing.

We added on an order of pizza bread — shockingly priced at $2.95 plate — to the mix. Glad we did. Sweetly sauced on a foundation of garlic bread, its bubbly, browned cheese topping showed proof of a quality oven. Sure, it's pizza bread, but it was plain good, and it made us imagine the pizzas — which plenty of folks called in for during our meal — are tasty, too.

Other beginners follow a well-worn path, ranging from fried calamari, onion rings, cauliflower or mozzarella sticks to baked clams. There are also American standbys, like potato skins and poppers, as well and a lineup of other salads, including a meat- and cheese-filled chopped version and an olive oil vinaigrette-dressed bocconcini and Roma tomato salad.

Next to arrive was a very large bowl of tender gnocchi dressed in tomato cream sauce and a substantial plate of chicken Parmesan with spaghetti on the side. It was clear no one would leave hungry.

A nice feature of the restaurant is the customizable pastas that give diners the chance to select nine standard shapes — mostaccioli, angel hair, ravioli — or preparations like vegetarian lasagna or stuffed shells and top them with any number of sauces, such as spicy arrabbiata, ham and bacon-flecked carbonara cream or Daniella cream sauce with spinach and tomatoes.

From chicken Vesuvio or Marsala to veal limone, everything you'd expect to find is on offer. But there's also fried shrimp and barbecue ribs, plus sandwiches from steak to burgers.

House-made desserts wrap things up sweetly, especially when part of a set-price meal. The tiramisu was appropriately coffee- and cocoa-spiked, and more interesting than the unadorned, though fluffy, cheesecake. A homemade brownie and carrot cake are options, too.

There's a small wine list and a full bar to complement everything, but the selections are as basic as one might expect.

Honestly, what stands out above all is how sincere the staff is and how much diners' enjoyment appears to factor in to a meal. In this day and age, that's a welcome attribute and one that left a lasting impression.

• Restaurant reviews are based on one anonymous visit. The Daily Herald does not review restaurants it cannot recommend.

<b>Cucina Bianchi Ristorante & Pizzeria</b>

1085 Nerge Road, Elk Grove Village; (847) 985-8889; cucinabianchi.com

<b>Cuisine:</b> Classic Italian

<b>Setting:</b> Family pizzeria in a pleasant strip mall

<b>Entrees:</b> $4.95 to $12.95

<b>Hours:</b> 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday to Thursday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday, 3 to 11 p.m. Saturday, 3 to 10 p.m. Sunday