Wheaton's Simply Thai Bistro satisfies cravings

Simply Thai Bistro opened in Wheaton in July to high praise from diners who sampled its traditional Thai food. Those commendations are well-justified, and I'm happy to join the chorus.

Despite its compact size (seating for fewer than 50), the restaurant handily delivers all manner of classic dishes from an extensive menu loaded with appetizers, soups and salads as well as noodle, rice, curry, chicken, seafood and vegetarian dishes.

However, that should come as no surprise, considering the establishment is owned and operated by food service veterans Pam Lanpouthakoun and her husband, Rath, whose roots can be traced, respectively, to Thailand and Laos.

The couple brings some 25 years' experience in the business to this location. Siri Thai, their flagship eatery, is still going strong in Palatine, and their newest addition offers the same expansive menu. The only marked difference is that until Simply Thai's pending liquor license application is approved, no alcoholic beverages may be sold there. However, BYOB is permitted.

On to the fare. A shared order of spring rolls proved an excellent way to start dinner. Simply Thai's version encases shrimp, egg, soft rice noodles, bean sprouts and cucumber in a rice paper roll. The appetizer came cut into bite-size pieces accompanied by a mildly sweet, flavorful dipping sauce.

Pot stickers, crab rangoon, deep-fried tofu and Thai-style escargot steamed in spicy coconut milk with basil leaves also were available. So was a salad with shredded green papaya tossed with fresh tomatoes.

Another popular option was Tom Yum soup. The piquant broth, spiced with lime juice and lemon grass, is made with mushrooms and a choice of either chicken or shrimp.

Curry fans will find six options, including a delightful roast duck version served with a bowl of steamed white rice. There's a lot going on in this dish that's prepared in red curry with basil leaves and Thai spices, which delivers just the right kick in terms of heat. Duck meat, bamboo shoots, tomatoes, bell peppers and pineapple chunks completed this flavorful entree.

Sesame Noodles, a signature dish, was another appealing savory dish. It featured egg noodles stir-fried in a sesame sauce with shrimp, crabmeat, carrots and cabbage.

Noodles also figure prominently in seven other entrees, including the classic Pad Thai, available with such choices as tofu, chicken, pork, beef or shrimp.

Ten different vegetarian selections round out the menu. Simply Thai says its kitchen eschews MSG.

Desserts are limited, and may be beside the point, taking into account the ample entree portions. Still interested in pressing on? Then give the Thai custard a go. Served warm, this slightly sweet treat, made in part from coconut milk and taro root, exceeded expectations.

Throughout the meal, service was attentive and friendly. And despite the formality of white linen tablecloths and elegant decor, the overall environment provides diners with a casual, relaxed ambience.

• Restaurant reviews are based on one anonymous visit. The Daily Herald does not publish reviews of restaurants it cannot recommend.

Simply Thai Bistro

563 W. Liberty Drive, Wheaton, (630) 765-7715, <a href="http://www.simplythaibistrowheaton.com">simplythaibistrowheaton.com</a>

<b>Cuisine:</b> Thai

<b>Setting:</b> Refined decor, casual atmosphere

<b>Prices:</b> Appetizers: $6-$13; entrees: less than $16

<b>Hours:</b> 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday; closed Monday

<b>Also:</b> Accepts reservations, accommodates takeout orders and will cater private events by arrangement

<b>Other location:</b> Siri Thai, 40 W. Palatine Road, Palatine, (847) 776-7600