Former restauranteur, dancer shares his story, recipe at Batavia program

By Sammi King

Daily Herald Correspondent

You won't find a jar of spaghetti sauce in Angelo Nicelli's kitchen. The former restaurateur believes in using fresh ingredients.

"It only takes 20 minutes to make a marinara sauce," said the 88-year-old who lives at The Holmstad in Batavia. "Even if you can't get fresh tomatoes, you can use good canned tomatoes and with garlic, basil and oil, you will have a great sauce."

Nicelli spent 33 years in the restaurant business before his popular spot, Cafe Angelo, closed in 1997. Before that, he had quite an interesting life.

Nicelli grew up in Brooklyn, New York. His childhood was full of adventures. He loved the Yankees and would spend 5 cents to take a bus and 50 cents to get in the games.

"They were all these Italians on the team," he added. "We loved those guys, especially Joe DiMaggio."

Kids in the neighborhood would meet outside to play. A neighbor, Angelo Siciliano, would often come out and teach them how to get stronger and build muscle. Siciliano became the king of "muscle men" and took on the name of Charles Atlas. Angelo Nicelli was a good student and ended up winning a major weightlifting contest and the title of Mr. Brooklyn.

His new look gave him confidence. On a trip with his friends to Coney Island, he spotted the most beautiful girl sitting on the beach. He went over and stole a kiss from 14-year-old Emilia Novolio.

"She was so startled," he said. "But then she laughed. It was the beginning of our relationship"

Weightlifting changed Nicelli's life. He could easily lift over 200 pounds. A friend told Nicelli that director and choreographer David Lichine was looking for someone to lift his wife, Tatiana Riabouchinska, across the stage in his upcoming production of "Polonaise."

"I had no trouble at all lifting her and carrying her across the stage," he said. "After I did it, I said to Lichine, 'How was that?' He responded, with a big, 'You're hired!'"

Nicelli decided dancing onstage was better than painting in the local shipyards. He studied with George Balanchine and worked with ballet companies in Europe. When he returned to New York, he opened his own ballet studio. He auditioned and was cast as a dancer for Broadway musicals, including "Carousel." He went by the stage name of "Tange" because he loved tangerines. To supplement his income, he waited tables in restaurants.

Angelo Nicelli and Emilia married in 1952, making their home in Brooklyn. A tragedy caused Nicelli to re-evaluate his decision to remain in Brooklyn.

"Three of my friends were gunned down in the streets," he said. "I knew that Millie and I had to get out of there."

They headed to the Midwest since Emilia's parents were here. With his restaurant experience, Angelo was able to find work. It wasn't long before a 34-year-old Nicelli was opening his first restaurant, La Canopy, on Devon.

Soon the popular restaurateur moved to the restaurant scene downtown. He became restaurant and beverage manager at the Hotel Knickerbocker.

In 1971, he opened Cafe Angelo in the Loop on Wabash Avenue. Using his family recipes, Nicelli focused on using fresh ingredients. This was not your spaghetti and meatball joint, this was fine Italian dining at its best.

"When we couldn't find a supplier for fresh basil, Millie and I planted our own," said Nicelli. "One time I planted 2,000 basil plants and every morning Millie would trim them. "

At his summer home in Benton, Michigan, he also grew his own zucchini, eggplant, bell peppers, Swiss chard, broccoli and other lettuces and herbs.

Cafe Angelo won numerous awards during its 26-year run. Esquire magazine chose the restaurant for its annual dinner an unprecedented two times. In 1975, the restaurant was included in the Chicago Tribune's top 10 list of best restaurants in Chicago. The National Pasta Association chose Nicelli's "Penne with Artichokes" as the best pasta recipe in 1990.

At one time, Nicelli was involved in five different restaurants in Chicago. He knew how to run a successful restaurant and he knew how to run the front of the house, greeting celebrities, politicians and everyday customers with the same courtesy and gracious hospitality.

When Nicelli lost the lease for the Cafe Angelo space, he made the decision to leave the restaurant business behind, even though his son-in-law, Jonathon Brandmeier, offered to buy him a new restaurant.

"I have beautiful daughters and great sons-in-law," he said. "But I didn't want John to do that."

Angelo Nicelli is a man who appreciates good food. He misses the restaurant days, sharing his family recipes and the recipes that he and Emilia developed in their kitchen.

On Thursday, April 16, Warren Dewolfe, the executive chef at The Holmstad, will demonstrate how to make one of Nicelli's favorite dishes for the residents. You can be sure the ingredients will be fresh, the cuisine Italian, and the food - Delizioso!