Moonstruck balances contemporary, classic fare

Moonstruck is one of those rare non-chain full-service gems that you wouldn't expect to find in a strip mall. Opened earlier this spring, this three-meal-a-day, family-owned restaurant offers something special on the Randall Road corridor in South Elgin.

Owner George Fhalaris, a lifelong restaurateur, and his wife, Prudence, enlivened their corner, window-lined space with wood floors, dark red and black walls and white linen tablecloths, covered, bistro-style, with white butcher paper. Wall art hearkens to the 1920s and 1930s with posters and photos depicting Ziegfeld's Follies, period movies and the like.

The restaurant initially opened only for breakfast and lunch before adding dinner this summer. My friend and I enjoyed an early dinner after work from a menu that uses locally produced ingredients when possible without bragging about it on the menu.

While waiting for my friend to arrive, I ordered a martini at the bar, which seemed appropriate to the period decor made even more atmospheric thanks to a vintage movie starring Natalie Wood and Warren Beatty showing on the closed-circuit TV monitors. Movies from the 1930s through the 1950s frequently provide background entertainment, Fhalaris said.

A full wine list will debut in early September, but for the moment just a few wines are available by the glass. Moonstruck does offer a full bar menu with a special section on martinis.

We started our dinner with a curried chicken satay appetizer, accented with a citrus yogurt dipping sauce. The chicken breast was moist, and the curry flavor did not overpower.

Appetizers range from the ubiquitous deep-fried calamari and spinach and artichoke dip to three satays with different dipping sauces. Chef John Calderaro is adding more choices as he continues to develop the dinner menu.

Soup or salad comes with entrees — always appreciated by the frugal among us. The house salad was a winner, made with a combination of very fresh lettuces and a generous amount of cucumbers and other vegetables. The balsamic vinaigrette added the right amount of tang to the greens.

My corn chowder, one of the signature soups, was surprisingly light and a pleasant break from the overly creamy ones I've had elsewhere. It was made with locally grown corn, with the base made from the chef's corn stock, chopped red bell pepper and a proper amount of freshly ground black pepper.

Entrees range from a couple of imaginative vegetarian items, such as portobello and tofu stir fry with hoisin sauce, garlic and scallions, to a grilled New York strip steak topped with spicy onion straws and chimichuri sauce. Currently light on seafood, the menu will carry more choices starting this fall, said Calderaro, who formerly worked at Mandile's in Algonquin and The Phoenician Resort in Phoenix.

My friend's Mediterranean roasted lemon chicken breast was well-flavored with a light lemon butter sauce accented with Kalamata olives, capers and oregano. Nicely browned and crisped roasted potato wedges completed the plate.

In the mood for some old-fashioned comfort food, I opted for the meatloaf and mashed potatoes. The preparation was anything but old-fashioned, featuring a vertical composition of sliced meatloaf layered with fresh corn and mashed potatoes and topped with mushroom gravy. The huge portion of a beef and pork blend was nicely seasoned and provided enough leftovers for two more meals.

Only two desserts were available the night we dined: cheesecake with strawberry sauce or tiramisu. We ordered the latter and were pleased with both the flavors and the pretty presentation on an artful drizzle of chocolate sauce. Dessert choices will change frequently.

A medium roast decaf was presented in a whole pot, eliminating the necessity of having the server return with refills. Service was good throughout, with proper pacing of courses and attention to detail.

Calderaro said he plans to change the menu seasonally and add daily specials come September. Fhalaris plans to add occasional live music, primarily jazz groups, which will lend a supper club atmosphere to the already pleasant room.

Ÿ Dining reviews are based on one anonymous visit. The Daily Herald does not review restaurants it cannot recommend.

<b>Moonstruck</b>

558 Randall Road, South Elgin, (224) 856-5268, <a href="http://www.moonstruckfood.com" target="_blank">moonstruckfood.com</a>

<b>Cuisine: </b>Contemporary and classic American

<b>Setting: </b>Crisp bistro with a 1930s flair

<b>Entrees: </b>$12 to $24

<b>Hours: </b>8 a.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday