Wine and dine at sophisticated 3 Vines

Lovers of food and wine will find much to like at 3 Vines, a surprisingly urban wine bar and contemporary American cafe in the quiet environs of Sleepy Hollow.

Hidden away in a far Northwest suburban strip mall, 3 Vines is an unexpected oasis of sophistication. A well-rounded wine list and a menu more likely to be found in a trendy Chicago neighborhood make this spot a welcome retreat.

Decor is modern. Tables are arranged along the walls around the bar, which serves as the room's focal point. A side room can be reserved for private parties and is used for dining overflow.

John and Flicka Regan own 3 Vines, and Flicka, a graduate of the Elgin Community College culinary program, is a prep cook at the restaurant. Eric Feltman, a restaurant industry veteran who worked with legendary Chicago chef Louis Szathmary, is executive chef, general manager and wine steward.

Feltman brings his classical training to the restaurant but mixes it up with contemporary international influences. “It's international cuisine designed to pair with wine in a bistro style,” he explains.

A quick study of the wine list reveals 100 varied selections from Michigan to South Africa that include many boutique vintages. Some 40 wines are available by the glass.

The full bar also highlights its selection of craft brews, martinis and a few specialty cocktails and after-dinner drinks.

Small plates dominate the menu and pair with wine flights. The daily specials sheet makes this process simple by suggesting wines that pair especially well with a number of dishes, and servers are trained to make recommendations.

My friend and I started with wine-steamed mussels, a light beginning that was briny and lemony and went well with both my sauvignon blanc and her riesling. The mussels were incredibly fresh. With 10 to the serving, they made an ideal first course.

Being seafood lovers, we continued with a second shellfish: “sizzling” shrimp. Five large shrimp were accented with garlic, lemon, parsley and olive oil, and they were accompanied by toasted ciabatta soaked with decadent melted garlic butter. The delightful dish tasted even better when bites were alternated with sips of chardonnay.

Next came peppadews — teardrop-shaped sweet red peppers filled with herbed Neufchatel cheese, garlic and fresh basil. They were served with large basil leaves, which, the server told us, are meant to be wrapped around the peppers. Following that good advice, we found this vegetarian dish a true treat and a nice complement to the protein plates.

We had to try the lamb “lollichops” with Cumberland sauce, a reduction made here with black currant jelly, port wine, orange, lemon and lime zests and juices, mustard and other seasonings. The four chops were cooked to our liking, medium-rare, and were a luxurious treat that we seldom try making at home. Incidentally most of the courses were served on oddly shaped white plates — much more interesting than the usual.

Feltman recommends a Zinfandel with the lamb chops, because of the wine's spiciness and black pepper finish. However, he advises the waitstaff to ask customers a little about what types of wine they enjoy before making recommendations.

These four small plates satisfied the two of us, but folks with larger appetites may want to order some of the other choices, such as naturally raised prime Angus beef tartare, smoked duck pancakes with hoisin sauce and scallions, or an alligator turnover for a New Orleans twist. Small plates are priced from $5 to $16.

The menu, which is the same at lunch and dinner, also lists soups, salads, sandwiches and a few entrees, which always include a grass-fed, hormone and antibiotic-free beef dish of the day, wild-caught seafood of the day and all-natural cage-free poultry.

A half-dozen desserts range from macaroons to bread pudding. We chose caramel crepes, made to order with fresh strawberries, orange segments and a slightly grainy sauce crafted in-house with Grand Marnier and raspberry vodka, topped with a little whipped cream.

Recorded blues played at the proper volume throughout our meal. You can catch live jazz or blues on Friday nights and more varied live music on Saturday.

The menu is seasonal, so it's seldom exactly the same from day to day. 3 Vines is an ideal place to stop off after work or for a festive night out without the kids.

<b>3 Vines</b>

1025 W. Main St., Sleepy Hollow, (847) 844-0567, <a href="http://www.3vinescafe.com" target="_blank">3vinescafe.com</a>

<b>Cuisine: </b>Contemporary American

<b>Setting: </b>Modern wine bar

<b>Hours: </b>11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday

<b>Entrees: </b>$17-$28