Wine bar chef can't escape destiny
Destiny (if you believe in that sort of thing) has been grooming Eric Feltman for his role at 3 Vines Cafe & Wine Bar for decades.
When he was growing up, Feltman's father owned a liquor store that specialized in high-end and boutique wines decades before it was trendy. Cases of French Margaux, Bordeaux, Champagnes and Napoleonic brandies filled the family cellar.
He remembers this advice from his father when he was a wee 5 years old: “Never drink on an empty stomach” and “if you are going to drink, drink only the best.”
He didn't immediately embrace the culinary arts, pursing a theater career instead. Eventually he answered the call of the kitchen and apprenticed with iconic Chicago chefs before striking out on his own.
He recently landed as executive chef and general manager at 3 Vines Cafe and Wine Bar in Sleepy Hollow where he creates wine-centric menus.
The Niles North High School graduate still lives in the Northern suburbs and has two daughters (high school honor students, he brags), a dog and a cat.
Who sparked your culinary interest? Who can I say except Julia Child. She was the embodiment of cuisine for me. I remember recreating a table-side steak Diane from one of her episodes and thinking to myself “this is the flavor and elegance that I want when I dine.” I was 13 or 14 at the time. Julia taught me to care about results and how your completed dish will present to your guest.
What is your culinary philosophy? How does it play out on the 3 Vines menu? Fresh, natural and imaginative is the credo. We source only the finest ingredients to create our offerings.
Our meats are all natural, prime Angus from Nebraska. Poultry comes from small farms in Arkansas, cage free and no additives. Our seafood is all wild caught and sustainable. Vegetation is organic, when we can, (consistency varies so some items may be hydroponic or small farm crops). During the summer, we grow our own fresh herbs in pots on our patio. We are looking to add tomatoes to our crop this year.
You've worked at some iconic Chicago restaurants. Tell me what you've gleaned from those experiences. I was fortunate to have studied with chef Louis Szathmary of The Bakery and Patrick Collins of The Racquet Club. Chef Louis honed in me the fine art of craftsmanship which I demonstrate to this day in how we plate items at 3 Vines.
Classic continental cuisine was the style in which I was raised. Fusion was not a frequently traveled path in my apprenticeship.
Patrick, on the other hand, had long been involved with continental fare and was doing them in a fused manner more regularly. Asian, French and Indian might find their way onto the same plate and I found this interesting.
You've worked with the Lyric Opera, do you find inspiration in music? Music has always played an important role in my kitchen. Not as much for culinary inspiration, more for the flow of movement. When in a rush mode, as with morning prep, I found inspiration in techno-pop when I was cooking in the 80s. Frenetic in style, it allowed me to move from one task to the next effortlessly. Classic rock, punk and alternative were more for the meal service hours as they were focused and driving in style.
Today, at 3 Vines, we have a wide variety of musical styles that our cooks listen to bluegrass, country, techno, classic rock, punk and a mash-up of everything blares from the speakers.
Do you plan the menu around the wines, or the wine selection around the food? At 3 Vines, I plan the menus around the season. Foods that are at their peak of flavor during a particular time of year is the goal, therefore, both foods and wines change frequently.
I may have an idea for a menu item when I taste wine but, I do not let that influence my decision. If the wine stands on its own and compliments food in general it will, more than likely, appear in our selection.
What is your favorite ingredient and how do you like to use it? Our kitchen manager at 3 Vines saw this question and looked me square in the eyes. With a smile, he said, “bread, butter and brandy.” It's true; I enjoy great breads and utilizing them in our offerings. Yes, the lush velvet of butter enriches the most basic of textures and, of course brandy completes the overall depth and character of a sauce.
But my favorite? Wine. We do not have one item on our menu that is not touched by wine, in one form or another.
What do you do in your spare time? My time with my children is the most important to me, even if it is for me to be within earshot of them while they complete their homework. We enjoy going into the city to tour the architecture or riding to the country to walk among the trees. We laugh easily and discuss any subject with candor and enthusiasm. I am a fortunate man.
I write political satire songs and accompany myself on guitar. I have not performed recently but do on occasion. I have a passion for art. I draw, paint and sculpt. My recent forays have been with computer generated pieces. I like the exactness of the process.
Tell us about this recipe: I first made the Moroccan lamb stew for a guest who is originally from England. He told me he could not get any good lamb here in the States and craved it. The following week, I created this dish.
Use the bones! Saute them with the vegetables, let them simmer in with the whole until the meat is tender, only then should you discard them … they are the source of wonderful flavor and collagen, great for thickening the sauce.
To compliment this dish, for reds I would choose either a young vine peppery Zinfandel, or a blend that includes the Tempranillo varietal as the largest percentage to the whole.
Whites would lead me to a bold blend with Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc or Pinot Gris as predominate varietals or as a single varietal, Albarino from the Rias Baixas region of Spain.
Try this at home or at 3 Vines Cafe & Wine Bar, 1025 W. Main St., Sleepy Hollow. (847) 844-0567.
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Chef Feltman had more to say than I have room to print. Read his story of Bastille Day bombes and learn more about his culinary philosophies at dailyherald.com/entlife/food.