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Schaumburg's Weber Grill adds new dishes to old standbys

In the dead of winter, when our yards are under a blanket of sloppy gray snow, we crave reminders of balmier times. And while Weber Grill is populated year-round, winter is when diners need this kettle grill-filled spot most.

Such was the case on a recent blustery, slushy weekend. The flagstone and dark wood-trimmed dining room — outfitted with swooping oversized banquettes, tables and a roaring fireplace — remained jammed from arrival to departure, its decibel level exactly what you'd expect from a wide-open, family-friendly joint.

The menu, while still rooted in chops and steaks, has undergone a mini-renaissance of late. But don't worry: the ribs, burgers and famed beer can chicken remain.

Now, though, starters go beyond the (admittedly good) artichoke spinach dip and onion curls to include a grilled seafood sampler for two, piled with diver scallops, chilled jumbo shrimp, grilled calamari and cold-smoked salmon dip with fire-roasted corn relish. It also sports grilled chimichurri shrimp. Granted, a few parsley flecks on the crustaceans proper is a loose interpretation of the garlicky-good condiment, but the perfectly cooked skewer alongside lime-dressed avocado, tomato and watercress salad was a bright spot nonetheless.

The grilled pizzas, too, have gotten a facelift; now, they're more akin to flatbreads. Though not as crisp as we would have hoped, the BLT version — strewn with Applewood bacon, peppery watercress, sun-dried tomatoes and a zigzag of tangy mayo — had good flavor on its side.

There are plenty of soups and salads, both small and entrée-sized, for lighter eaters. The chopped salad — loaded with grilled chicken, bacon, avocado, cucumbers, tomatoes and blue cheese in smoky corn vinaigrette — remains a good bet.

Moving on to entrees, we focused on the Tuscan-style “brick” chicken. It wasn't the crispy-skinned version we've grown accustomed to, but the flat cutlets studded with sun-dried tomatoes and capers in lemony sauce atop garlic mashed potatoes proved hard not to like.

Meanwhile, thick-sliced meatloaf, cloaked in sweet, hickory-infused barbecue sauce, offered a pleasant riff on mom's mainstay. It was good, hearty sustenance, served with brooding bourbon baked beans on the side.

Other offerings range from Parmesan-crusted tilapia in lemon butter to grilled shrimp and calamari penne with roasted wild mushrooms, fennel, capers and tomato-basil sauce. Plenty of meaty main courses remain — like barbecue chicken and St. Louis ribs, available in combo form. An added boon of late is the fact that the aged filet and hickory-smoked prime rib both come in two sizes. That's good news for anyone watching their waistlines.

Saving room for dessert is a feat, what with the super-sized portions. Still, we settled on the trio: mini warm apple pie with rich bourbon caramel sauce, puckery Key lime cheesecake and dense double chocolate cake. It's a good way to tackle an array of the sweet stuff. Look for specials, like creme brulee with berries, to inject a taste of summer into meals as well.

The passable wine and beer list is easily eclipsed by the cocktails. Fruity sangria, for example, conjures up backyard barbecues. Ditto the passion fruit margaritas and caipirinha.

And while a passion fruit margarita cries out for sunshine, Weber's food — and the chummy service — provide the kind of respite you need when the climate won't comply.

  Brick chicken takes on the flavors of Tuscany at Weber Grill in Schaumburg. Mark Black/mblack@dailyherald.com
  Executive chef John Cosnotti uses one of the large grills to make a cheeseburger at Weber Grill in Schaumburg. Mark Black/mblack@dailyherald.com
  The Weber Grill in Schaumburg has changed its menu but kept its emphasis on burgers, steak, chicken and the like. Mark Black/mblack@dailyherald.com
  Dark woods and a roaring fireplace help set the mood at Weber Grill in Schaumburg. Mark Black/mblack@dailyherald.com

<b>Weber Grill</b>

1010 N. Meacham Road, Schaumburg, (847) 413-0800, <a href="http://www.webergrillrestaurant.com" target="_blank">webergrillrestaurant.com</a>

<b>Cuisine: </b>American

<b>Setting: </b>Clubby convivial grill

<b>Entrees: </b>$9.95 to $37.95

<b>Hours: </b>11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 4 to 10 p.m. Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday