In its Prime: Schaumburg steakhouse continues to dazzle

Flawless.

It's not often that I have occasion to use that word to describe a restaurant, but in the case of Chicago Prime Steakhouse in Schaumburg it's the first word that comes to mind.

It's no accident, either. The staff - from the well-trained servers and award-winning chef to the seasoned managers and owners - works in sync to ensure guests have the best steakhouse experience this side of O'Hare.

Let's start with a bit of background. Owners George and Maggie Kalkounos opened Chicago Prime Steakhouse at Algonquin and Meacham in early 2009 after closing their restaurant of the same name a few years earlier. Before that, they ran the now-shuttered and quite popular Prime Table in Rolling Meadows.

The new space dazzles: Plush banquettes and rich wood accents typify the clubby steakhouse motif, but full-length windows, modern lighting and a stunning backlit mural of the Windy City skyline bring Chicago Prime into the 21st Century.

The menu, too, straddles classic steakhouse fare and contemporary cuisine. Traditional favorites like oysters Rockefeller and shrimp DeJonghe share space on the appetizer menu with Thai buffalo shrimp and portobello mushroom with port glaze, the only shareable non-seafood starter. The portobello was perfectly grilled, tender, yet with some bite. Don't dismiss the roasted garlic on the plate as mere garnish; smear a clove or two on toasty bread and top with the mushroom and you'll hear angels sing.

Or maybe that's just the angelic voice of Old Blue Eyes lilting overhead.

The star of the menu is, of course, beef. All sorts of cuts of prime grade aged beef. If you're new to Chicago Prime, the waiter brings the butcher block to the table and describes the attributes of all the cuts.

The bacon-wrapped filet mignon did not disappoint: thick and juicy, tender and flavorful with Gorgonzola crumbles cascading to the plate. The side of au gratin potatoes - a rich, creamy preparation of cubed (not sliced) spuds - provided a nice accompaniment. The sides, by the way, come a la carte and include wild rice, steamed asparagus, creamed spinach and ginormous baked potatoes. Yes we were tempted by the apple wood bacon sticks, but we couldn't justify $7 for a strip of bacon, no matter what it was smoked on.

The kitchen also offers classic steak Diane and filet Oscar as well as lamb, pork and veal chops and two nice chicken dishes (Marsala and Scallopini).

Jumbo fried shrimp and Alaskan king crab legs are tried-and-true favorites, and the macadamia-crusted halibut is sure to join their ranks.

The fish was expertly prepared with a crisp crust and moist interior; equally as good (dare I say even better) was its Parmesan creamed corn partner, intensely fresh with a polenta-like texture.

I went with the suggested wine, Bricco Riella Moscato d'Asti; the pairing of the fish and the effervescent bubbles made my mouth quite happy.

While there's no sommelier on staff to guide you through Chicago Prime's extensive New World-leaning wine list (you'll notice the wine room right when you walk in), general manager Andy-John Kalkounos says the waitstaff gets frequent wine training.

More than a dozen wines are available by the glass at $9 to $15.

Desserts (except the tiramisu) are made in-house and should not be overlooked. The bread pudding is not for the weak-minded. You'll want to stop, anticipating how your stomach will react to the rich loaf settling onto the steak that you polished off, but the creamy brioche and caramely banana chunks will tease you until it too is gone.

A steakhouse couldn't call itself a Chicago steakhouse without cheesecake, and the light amaretto variety fills the bill nicely.

The Chicago Prime Steakhouse experience doesn't have to stop after dessert. A roomy lounge with a full bar and a slew of signature martinis and haute cocktails awaits. On the weekends you can hear live music of the bluesy persuasion in the lounge.

<p class="factboxheadblack">Chicago Prime Steakhouse</p>

<p class="News">1444 E. Algonquin Road, Schaumburg, (847) 969-9900, <a href="http://chicagoprimesteakhouse.com" target="new">chicagoprimesteakhouse.com</a></p>

<p class="News"><b>Cuisine:</b> Classic Chicago steakhouse fare</p>

<p class="News"><b>Setting: </b>Opulent room flanked by floor-to-ceiling windows and skyline mural</p>

<p class="News"><b>Entrees:</b> $19 to $40</p>

<p class="News"><b>Hours:</b> 5 to 10 p.m. Monday to Thursday; 5 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday</p>