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Stain-removing issues

Correction: In a recent column, I answered an Illinois reader's question asking how to remove a blue stain caused by a leaky shampoo bottle on a marble shower over a nine-month period.

My usual expert contact on marble-related matters was on vacation and I got the information I printed from another source.

Unfortunately, a sharp reader pointed out to me that part of my answer was incorrect. Thank you.

The information I provided was incomplete and somewhat misleading, for which I apologize.

Bleach can be used to remove an oil-based stain on marble, but I should have cautioned that it should not be left on more than 10 minutes, as it could etch the marble.

My expert contact also said that some shampoos have a citric acid base, and if the shampoo used is one of those, the marble has already been etched, which will require professional help to repolish.

A sealer should also be applied once the polishing has been done. Sealing marble should be done periodically, but was probably not done as recommended, which aggravated the stain.

The best method to use to try to remove the stain is to make a slurry with borax and regular hydrogen peroxide. Apply it to the stain and leave it on for an hour or so before wiping it off. If that does not do it, make a poultice with the same ingredients, apply it over the stain and cover it with a plastic film. Leave the poultice overnight.

There are commercial oil-stain cleaners on the market, such as Stone Teck Revitalizer Cleaner & Protector; www.stoneteckproducts.com.

Once the stain has been successfully removed, even though the Revitalizer offers some protection, you may want to consider applying Stone Teck Bulletproof Sealer, one of the best, if not the best, on the market.

However, be aware that a deep stain may never be completely removed.

Q. I had my old furnace replaced this fall with a new furnace and A/C. The new furnace is a Bryant and is 60,000 btu whereas the old furnace was 70,000 btu. Bryant doesn't make a 70,000. I am unhappy with the new unit as it doesn't seem to heat the house well. I haven't had any below zero days this winter but am scared about that in the future. Do you think I should demand the company replace this furnace with the next size they have which is 80,000? I am afraid that might be too big and I've been told it may turn off too soon. The new furnace is a 95 percent efficiency. But if I continue to raise the temperature, I will not be saving anything and actually use more gas.

If I call the HVAC company, exactly what question should I ask? If I ask them if they used the data from the Manual J or the AFUE info you mentioned, how will I know they actually did if they say yes? Since I really don't understand any of this, I am not sure what questions to present and to be assured I'm getting the answers I need. As usual I feel women are dismissed in situations like this. Any further help you can give me to ask intelligent questions and respond to their answers with possibly more questions will be extremely appreciated.

A. Your problem may have two causes. One may be that the three thermostats are not the right ones. There should not be a 2- to 3-degree fluctuation in temperature; the maximum should be no more than one degree. A different brand digital, programmable thermostat may have to be installed.

The other may be that some adjustments can be made to correct the variations in the performance of the furnace.

You need to be satisfied with your latest expense. Why don't you ask them to replace the furnace with a different brand of the right size if the old 70,000 Btu furnace was keeping you comfortable?

That would be the best solution.

If they do not handle different brands, you might have to settle for a change to the next size up Bryant offers, and it should only cost you the difference in price between the 60,000 Btu and the 80,000 Btu furnace.

Even though an oversized furnace is not as efficient at providing you with the comfort you need with the best use of energy, the main concern IS your comfort. And there should not be that much difference in fuel consumption with high efficiency furnaces.

Q. Our 24-year-old concrete garage floor is slowly deteriorating. There is much pitting, especially where we park our cars, and quite a bit of dust from this deterioration. Wondering the best method to protect the floor to keep down the dust and continued pitting of the floor. Assume we would apply some sort of sealant, if so would be concerned about any increased slipping potential due to applying a product over the floor. Can you provide us some guidance on how to treat this problem?

A. The best advice I can give you is to have a concrete contractor apply a thin topping containing a vinyl additive for better adhesion onto the entire garage floor.

This should be followed by a sealant to protect the new topping from the effects of road salt tracked in during the winter.

Ask the contractor if he or she have had success adding a special grit to the sealant to make the repair less slippery when wet.

Q. I am a longtime reader of your items over the years. My situation is pressure-treated lumber that I used for the planking. At the time, four years ago, I brushed it with clear preservative and it lasted for one year. I additionally went to the same product but a different supplier with the same result. I now pressure-washed all the stain from the boards and am ready to get better results. After reading and visiting suppliers, I am confused. Some say waterborne semi solid, others say oil-base semitransparent.

On the internet the top three products are Armstrong Clark, TWP 1500 and Defy Extreme. All of these are purchased from their website. I have been to the local Sherwin Williams store and they told me to use semitransparent oil-base.

I must say that I tried a waterborne clear stain from them which lasted one year. I hesitate to buy one of the top three listed not knowing their success, and they are expensive and must buy 5 gallons to get free shipping. Lastly, do you recommend deck wash, or brightener prior to staining?

A. I vote for Amteco TWP 1500, which in the Burlington area, you can buy at Glidden Professional Paint Center, 60 San Remo Drive, South Burlington. Their phone number is 863-6387. I have had great success with Amteco's products over many decades.

• Henri de Marne, a former remodeling contractor turned columnist and consultant, is the author of "About the House with Henri de Marne" (Upper Access Publishing). He continues to take questions from readers for this column and his website, www.henridemarne.com. Email questions to aboutthehouse@gmavt.net.

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