advertisement

Removing old stains on marble tile

Q. We had shampoo leak onto our marble tile in a shower inset over a period of 9 months. Now that the shampoo is used up, it has left a blue stain on the white and gray marble tile. We have tried various cleaners on the stain to no avail. How can we eliminate the stain?

A. A stain that has been there for nine months may be hard to get eliminate. It may have penetrated deeply into the marble.

You haven't said what cleaners you used, so here are a few things to try, if you haven't already done so.

Shampoos are usually oil-based. Start with a liquid cleaner that contains bleach. If this does not do it, try adding bleach to increase its strength. You may end up using straight bleach.

If not successful, try using another cleaner that does not contain bleach, to which you can add ammonia (remember never to mix ammonia and bleach; it results in a lethal gas).

Next, try mineral spirits or acetone added to the bleach-free cleaner. If needed, increase the proportion of acetone or mineral spirits to the cleaner.

Pharmacy-strength or swimming pool hydrogen peroxide may also be effective.

But if there is still a residual stain, you may need to use a poultice made of cornstarch, baking soda and water to form a thick paste. Apply it on the remaining stain to a thickness of one-half inch or so with a spatula, cover the paste with plastic film and let stand 24 to 48 hours.

Wipe the poultice off with water. You may have to repeat the process several times, and it is possible that the stain may not be completely eliminated.

Q. We have a 1950s home we purchased eight years ago. We removed the carpet to reveal a hardwood floor that was in need of refinishing. We also had a weatherization audit and re-insulated the house with a combination of blown insulation in the attic, dense-pack in the walls, and we foamed the basement sill. We have yet to refinish the floors. Here's our issue:

When the humidity gets really bad, the wood floor, especially the area closest to the front door, gets wet. You can literally see and feel wetness in between the wood floorboards, rising from the tongues and grooves. At first we thought there might be a leak somewhere but this issue goes away when the humidity is low and is not tied to rain. I'm guessing this is somehow connected to the insulation, because we noticed this shortly after we had the insulation installed.

We do run a dehumidifier in the basement. We want to refinish the floors but feel this issue needs to be addressed first unless refinishing will help seal the wood and protect it from the humidity? Any idea what to do or who best to call to help us solve this problem?

A. If the moisture is so bad as to be so evident, you are lucky that the hardwood floor is not cupping and expanding to the point that boards are actually lifting.

This tells me the moisture you see is most likely a surface condensation problem and not coming from a high relative humidity in the basement. And since the moisture is more evident around the front door, my guess is the weatherization did not include a new insulated front door.

Warm, moist air may infiltrate around the door, especially at the sill, and condenses on the floor surface kept cool by a cool basement and a tighter house following the weatherization. Prior to the weatherization, the air exchange through the process of infiltration and exfiltration in the house kept the hardwood floor more in sync with the outside air.

Q. I have a skylight that on the outside is full of sap and dirt. What's the best product to use to clean it?

A. Try washing the glass with warm water to which ammonia has been added. Be careful walking on the roof or, better yet, have a contractor or handy person experience in walking on roofs do it for you.

Q. I plan to put house wrap over my Masonite siding, but I cannot find a video that actually shows you how to put wrap over the Masonite siding. Do you stretch the wrap tight or does it matter?

A. I am not clear as to why you want to put housewrap over your siding. Are you planning to apply new siding over the Masonite siding because it has deteriorated beyond salvage?

The housewrap should be reasonably tight, but not overtight. It should not be so loose as to flop in the wind.

You may find it difficult to staple the housewrap to the Masonite siding, as it is quite dense. You may need to hammer the staples in or nail the housewrap.

Q. We have a brick paver patio that is about 20 years old. I would like to seal the patio because the bricks are starting to look a little dull. We last sealed the patio about five years ago. Can you recommend a good product to use?

A. First clean the bricks by pressure washing them at low pressure so as not to damage them. Then apply a clear sealer such as Alliance Gator's Hybrid Seal High Gloss + Color Enhancer (www.alliancegator.com.) Click on Products and click on Sealers in the drop down menu, then click on the product mentioned above.

To locate your nearest dealer, contact Alliance Gator at (866) 212-1611.

Q. As many readers have said before me, your return is a pleasure even if all the questions don't pertain to me. I enjoy your perspective.

I bought Milsek months ago based on your recommendation. It works and it doesn't work. I just did my kitchen cabinets yesterday and already one cabinet door is a little tight. I have not tried all the doors but will after I send this email.

I have oak cabinet doors. Some open as smooth as silk and others become almost a two-handed job. The cabinets are around 25 years old. Is there another product you can recommend. I used the pads from Mr. Clean I believe and they don't work.

What do you think about squeezing a lemon on a soft pad and wiping the doors?

A. I don't quite understand why Milsek, used to clean and polish your kitchen cabinets, would make one or more of their doors more difficult to operate.

Milsek, used according to the manufacturer's directions, removes any accumulated grease and other pollutants and leaves a nice polish on the surfaces.

You are the first person who has written expressing dissatisfaction with this excellent cleaner and polisher. Perhaps others with the same experience have not brought it to my attention, but all the comments I have received have been raves.

And as I have mentioned before, ever since Milsek was recommended to me by a Pennsylvania reader years ago, we have used it exclusively with wonderful results on teak and other wood furniture.

I am sorry that you have been disappointed and I thank you for your kind comments.

• Henri de Marne, a former remodeling contractor turned columnist and consultant, is the author of "About the House with Henri de Marne" (Upper Access Publishing). He continues to take questions from readers for this column and his website, www.henridemarne.com. Email questions to aboutthehouse@gmavt.net.

Article Comments
Guidelines: Keep it civil and on topic; no profanity, vulgarity, slurs or personal attacks. People who harass others or joke about tragedies will be blocked. If a comment violates these standards or our terms of service, click the "flag" link in the lower-right corner of the comment box. To find our more, read our FAQ.