Grilling season is California wine season

The sweet and spicy smoke rising from porch and backyard grills throughout Chicagoland signals that it's California wine season.

Winter has time for elaborate recipes and contemplation, paired with the complex, lean and acid-y wines of the Old World.

But the rich, caramelized and smoke-laced flavors snatched from a grill call for California's signature flavors: rich body, extra-ripe fruit and oak.

Take vegetables: carrots, corn, mushrooms, onion and others gain sweetness when grilled, as dry heat releases natural sugars in a process called caramelization.

A bone-dry, tart European wine will taste even bonier and tarty-er when paired with this sweetness.

California wine meets sweetness with ripe fruitiness, while the veggie's crispy bits are echoed by the wine's oak accents.

For dishes including grilled onion and mushroom pizza or grilled corn and red pepper tortilla choose America's Number One selling varietal - Chardonnay. For rich, expressive and affordable Chardonnay, one producer to look for is Wente Family Vineyards, the "First Family" of California Chardonnay.

In 1912, Ernest Wente brought French Chardonnay cuttings to California; over decades, he cultivated the vines, selecting flavors most expressive of California's golden sunshine. Today, the Wente Clone is integral throughout California vineyards.

In 1936, Ernest and brother Herman broke with centuries-old tradition by releasing a wine named for a grape (not a region), specifically Chardonnay and specifically the Wente Clone.

Today at Wente Family Vineyards, fifth-generation Karl Wente crafts a full selection such as cabernet sauvignon, Riesling and Chardonnays including:

"Morning Fog" Chardonnay - This easy-sipper hits all the notes that make Chardonnay popular - bright pear/apple fruit, buttery texture, hints of butterscotch on the finish. ($12)

"Riva Ranch" Chardonnay - Creamy and rich, with ripe tree and tropical fruit flavors accented by toast, vanilla and brown spice. ($18)

As sweet or spicy flavors grow, turn toward a sweeter wine. For dishes such as grilled mango salsa, grilled peaches wrapped in prosciutto and sweet-and-spicy barbecue sauce, California Riesling or Rose balance sugar and spice.

For a unique choice, ask for the ripe apple flavors, whisper of sweetness and bright acidity in Dry Creek Vineyard "Dry" Chenin Blanc (about $12.)

The Chenin Blanc grape woos U.S. palates in its French iteration of Vouvray, but in California vineyards, this versatile grape is an endangered species.

Good news then that the longest-lived producer of California Chenin Blanc, is also the best.

Since the 1960s, Dry Creek Vineyard Founder David Stare has created wine trends, with his recognition of Sonoma's Dry Creek Valley, with his pioneering plantings of Sauvignon Blanc and Zinfandel, and with his devotion to Chenin Blanc. Today, Dry Creek Vineyard, still family-owned and operated, is the only American winery to release 45 consecutive Chenin Blanc vintages, consistently deemed "Best Buy" by critics and consumers alike.

Another option for sweet or spicy dishes is fruit cider. In this case, make your selection from "the Napa of the Midwest," Michigan's cider coast.

Carnivores can turn to California's Cabernet, Merlot and Zinfandel.

But a break from meat doesn't rule out red wine.

Just be certain your grilled dish incorporates plenty of fat and protein to bind with red wine's tannin.

For dishes such as grilled Portobello burger topped with blue cheese or grilled Panini stuffed with sun-dried tomatoes and Swiss, choose a red blend with rich fruit and soft tannin.

The red blend category is the wine industry's rising star. In the Old World, most blends are bound by defined regional flavors; in the U.S. winemakers are free to add a pinch of Merlot, a dash of Syrah, any vinous ingredient to satisfy the current trend.

Examples abound of producers offering juicy fruit, smoke and spice accents. There are also loads of luscious textures, good value and catchy names including Bogle "Essential" Red ($9); Bogle "Phantom" Red ($14); Fess Parker "Frontier" Red ($10); Fess Parker "The Big Easy" Red ($30).

But even if fruit, smoke and spice are America's favorite flavors in red wine, they are this palate's least. Your retailer is certain to have recommendations of their favorite red blends for your grilling season.

Meet Mary in person: The Chopping Block Lincoln Square offers Summer Synergy: Wine & Grilled Food Pairing on June 29. Along with an accredited sommelier (yours truly!), guests taste and discuss five wines paired with grilled goodies (including Grilled Lobster Rolls with Lemon-Tarragon Butter), while learning how to make them with a professional chef. Space is limited and registration required at http://www.thechoppingblock.com/take-a-wine-class.

• Mary Ross is an Advanced Sommelier (Court of Master Sommeliers), a Certified Wine Educator (Society of Wine Educators) and recipient of the Wine Spectator's "Grand Award of Excellence." Her classes on wine and food are offered through The Chopping Block, Chicago.