Rosé by any other name would slip over the palate just as sweet, or dry

Now that the U.S. is past equating the world's traditional, dry Rosé with American-made, sweet White Zinfandel; now that Rosé is the rage as an alternative to white wine and — as the temperature soars — a chillable alternative to red; now that retailers have moved Rosé from a single display in back to several stacks down the center aisle, it's time for U.S. wine lovers to decide, which Rosé?

The primary question is: dry or sweet?

White Zin and other “White …” will satisfy the sweet tooth with little complexity. But how much complexity do you need when you're swinging in a hammock?

Montevina, the fine red Zinfandel producer also makes a fine White Zin that satisfies the throng and forgiving wine geeks. (California; under-$10.)

White Zin and other sweet Rosés are the perfect pairings for sweet-and-spicy sauces on summertime grills and for sweeter carryout cuisines such as some Thai dishes.

Robertson “Natural Sweet” Rosé is a berry-sweet quaff that doesn't skimp on interesting flavor, from a blend of Ruby Cabernet, Chenin blanc and Colombard. (South Africa, under-$10)

To have a Rosé your way, make a Kir (Keer), with sweetness adjusted to your preference.

Named to honor the French cleric and Resistance fighter Felix Kir, this beloved cocktail blends two products of Kir's homeland — the lean white wine and the luscious blackcurrant liqueur of Burgundy. Nearly fill a white wineglass with chilled Bourgogne Aligote (a locally available producer is Domaine de Chene, about $14), add teaspoons of chilled crème de cassis to taste. If Aligote is unavailable, a Bourgogne Macon will suffice.

Otherwise, the world's Rosé ranges from moderately to bone dry. Too bad that labels offer little clue which is which. Turn to your trusted retailer or sommelier for guidance or look for:

Chateau de Lancyre “Le Rosé”: Sturdy and dry with a round palate of berries, herbs and spice. Firm tannin (firm for Rosé) makes a match with the grilled sausages famous in France's south and in Chicagoland. (Coteaux de Languedoc, France; $18)

Chateau Puech-Haut “Prestige”: Elegant and appealing, with the faintest blush of pink and shy nose belying round entry and expanding flavor of citrus, berries and minerals, with firm, acidy finish. (Languedoc, France; $17)

Fattoria Sardi Rosé: Dry, rich and rewarding. Fruit and herbs blend in the uniquely complex Rosé of Sangiovese, merlot and Ciliegiolo. (Tuscany, Italy; $20)

Kir-Yianna, “Akakies” Rosé: Dynamic energy of strawberry fruit, herbs and spicy accents balanced by firm acidity, from the classic Xinomavro grape. Rich flavors, not for the faint of palate. (Amyndeon, Greece; $12)

Les Vignes des Bila-Haut: Vibrant, sturdy and complex with near-sweetness mingled with spice. (Pays d'Oc, France; $12.99)

M de Minuty Rosé: Plump palate of ripe peach, orange peel, spice and racy acidity. For the second year, this wine wins my vote for easy elegance. (Cotes de Provence, France; $19)

Don't forget the bubbly!

For the best value in Rosé bubbly, ask for Spanish Cava and producers including Casteller Rosado and Mas Fi Brut Rosé (both about $10). If Rosé cava isn't available, follow instructions for Kir above, substituting Cava for white wine.

Also turn to your retailer for information on acidity, an important element in food pairing.

White Zin offers no acidity, with sticky sugar dulling the palate.

Well-made Rosé refreshes the palate with tart acidity (similar to white wine) and offers various levels of tannic acid (similar to red). So, Rosé pairs with seafood, poultry, light meats and veggie salad, as well as red meat, the richest seafood, poultry and other meat salads.

In fact, Rosé is so versatile and our current selection so bountiful, I'm changing my outgoing phone message to end “ … in the case of emergency, serve dry Rosé.”

• Mary Ross is an Advanced Sommelier (Court of Master Sommeliers), a Certified Wine Educator (Society of Wine Educators) and recipient of the Wine Spectator's “Grand Award of Excellence.” Her classes on wine and food are offered through The Chopping Block, Chicago. Write to her at food@daily herald.com.

Ross' choice

Name: Isabel Rosé

Region: California, USA

Producer: Michael Mondavi Family Estate

Vintage: 2016

Availability: Fine wine shops, $20

(Distributed by: Breakthrough Beverage, Cicero)

Fans of previous vintages remember Isabel as nearly red and definitely sweet. This vintage reflects America's palate for lighter, drier Rosé. The blend of cabernet sauvignon, Barbera and a dash of Muscat invites with floral and strawberry aromas, dry but strawberry-like flavors, accented with spice and refreshing acidity. Patterned after France's Provencal Rosé, the wine is classic with dishes served in the south-of-France (and Chicago) including veggies and dip and pissaladiere (grilled dough topped with olive and anchovies). When a soaring summer temperature requires chilled wine, the wine's tartness will brighten richer dishes including grilled seafood and daub (slow-cooked stew.) The new package with sealable glass stopper makes for re-use as a pretty container for vinegar, water and other beverages.