It's time for spring pruning

Gardeners fall into two camps when they think about pruning. One group can't wait to get their hands on a pair of pruning shears and start carving, and the mere thought of pruning strikes fear in the hearts of the other.

When it comes to pruning shrubs in spring, a little knowledge prevents pruning mishaps by overzealous Edward Scissorhands and bestows confidence in nervous Nellies.

Shrubs that bloom later in summer - after June 15 - or are grown primarily for their foliage are candidates for spring pruning. Pruning summer bloomers in early spring gives them plenty of time to recover and develop flower buds to bloom on schedule. Spring-pruned shrubs grown for foliar interest quickly regrow fresh new foliage that decorates the garden the rest of the season.

Regardless of the motivation for pruning, begin by eliminating dead or damaged branches. Always sterilize pruning tools between shrubs to avoid the possibility of spreading disease. Next, look at the overall shape of the shrub, now visible without leaves, and remove crossing and wayward branches as necessary.

Shrubs that have a lot of stems rising from the soil, like dogwoods, need thinning. Thinning opens the interior of a shrub to sunlight and air circulation. Up to one-third of the oldest, thickest branches should be cut near the ground to make room for the new, most colorful stems.

The branches of shrubs with a single stem or just a few main stems should be pruned just above outward-facing plump buds. Smaller, tidier shrubs are the result.

Older, overgrown shrubs may need rejuvenation pruning. Appropriate for multi-stemmed shrubs that have grown so unrestrained that getting the shrub back into proper form is the priority. All stems are cut back to the ground as early as possible in spring. Some shrubs that respond favorably to this pruning technique are barberry, some types of dogwood, forsythia, panicle hydrangeas, potentilla, some varieties of spirea, weigela and some types of viburnums.

New growth will quickly follow and within a season or two, they will once again be full and attractive. Don't try rejuvenation pruning if there is already abundant new growth or at other times of the year - it can damage shrubs.

When making pruning cuts, err on the side of caution. More of a branch or another branch can always be cut, but once it's gone, even duct tape can't help. On the flip side, don't let the fear of a misplaced cut stop you from picking up your pruning shears. Just as a bad haircut resolves itself with time, a plant will generally grow out of a pruning mistake.

Many shrubs never need pruning and look their best when left alone to grow as nature intended. If the shrub is healthy and is performing up to expectations, put the pruners away. But if pruning is indicated, fear not. Do a little research, follow general pruning guidelines, and make cuts thoughtfully to promote fresh branches for future flowers and foliage.

A sampling of shrubs to prune in the spring:

• Alpine currant (Ribes alpinum)

• Barberry (Berberis thunbergii)

• Beautyberry (Callicarpa spp.)

• Burning bush (Euonymus alatus)

• Bush honeysuckle (Diervilla spp.)

• Buttonbush (Cephalanthus occidentalis)

• Cinquefoil (Potentilla fruticose)

• Dogwood (Cornus spp.)

• Euonymus (Euonymus fortune)

• Ninebark (Physocarpus spp.)

• Panicle hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata)

• Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus)

• Smokebush (Cotinus coggygria)

• Smooth hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens)

• Sumac (Rhus aromatica)

• Summersweet (Clethra spp.)

• Summer-blooming spiraea (Spiraea x bumalda, Spiraea x japonica)

• Sweetshrub (Calycanthus floridus)

• Diana Stoll is a horticulturist, garden writer and the garden center manager at The Planter's Palette in Winfield. She blogs regularly gardenwithdiana.com.