Contemporary Geneva bistro Restaurant Juliette makes a favorable impression

Restaurateurs David and Juliette Reyes are on a roll, enlivening dining-out prospects in the Geneva and St. Charles area.

The ambitious chefs recently debuted Restaurant Juliette, a contemporary bistro in downtown Geneva, where the chefs have taken over premises vacated by the short-lived Hache Moderne Brasserie. The bistro, which can seat about 100 customers, features updated lighting and new artwork in the revamped space.

Restaurant Juliette joins two other venues operated by the Reyes: The Finery & Blacksmith Bar, a highly acclaimed farm-to-table restaurant in St. Charles, and the Grandstander, a popular gastropub in Geneva. Both opened last summer.

The Reyes learned the ins and outs of classical French cuisine while enrolled in the culinary arts program at Kendall College in Chicago.

A recent dinner at Restaurant Juliette made a favorable impression.

To start, Restaurant Juliette has a full-service bar that includes a wide selection of beers, specialty cocktails, and domestic and imported wines.

The menu — offering small and large plates, salads and sandwiches — is still a work in progress. But it demonstrates how a pair of creative young chefs can break with tradition and still maintain loose ties with timeless French bistro dishes.

Our meal started with bread service: Still-warm baguettes arrived with a compound butter made with five herbs and caramelized shallots. It's a tasty treat you'll want to savor to the last bite.

Meanwhile, Moroccan falafel, a shared appetizer, focused on the versatility of the humble chickpea. Sauteed chickpea cakes came with a radicchio salad and a traditional hummus. The whole works came topped with a mild harissa cream.

Other starters to consider were frog legs in a tempura batter; sauteed foie gras with a port wine demi-glace; slow-cooked onion soup; and leek brandade, a Provençal specialty made with salt cod and a potato fondue served on a toasted baguette.

Sandwich options include croque monsieur: seared ham with Mornay sauce made with grated Gruyère cheese and served on toasted brioche. Adding a duck egg (a nice grace note) carries a $3 tariff.

Large-plate choices — seven in all — include filet medallions with a brandy peppercorn sauce, roast chicken and bouillabaisse, among others. I recommend the duck confit with one proviso: Be prepared to wrestle the crisp meat from the duck leg. The dish comes with grilled frisée and lentils.

Salmon rotie ranked high with a fellow diner. And after a few sample bites I concurred with her assessment. This filling dish was plated with roasted wild mushrooms, potato puree and a subtle citrus butter.

For something sweet, chocolate cake with a warm, gooey chocolate fondant center was the dessert headliner. A scoop of vanilla ice cream sealed the deal.

Service, provided by a congenial and knowledgeable waitstaff, doesn't skip a beat.

If you're looking to bring a large group, the restaurant can accommodate private parties by arrangement.

• Restaurant reviews are based on one anonymous visit. The Daily Herald does not publish reviews of restaurants it cannot recommend.

Restaurant Juliette

524 W. State St., Geneva, (630) 402-0288

<b>Cuisine:</b> French

<b>Setting:</b> Modern bistro

<b>Entrees:</b> Small plates: $8-$22; large plates: $18-$32

<b>Hours:</b> 4 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday

<b>Also:</b> Reservations, especially on weekends; street parking

<b>Other restaurants</b>

<b>• The Finery & Blacksmith Bar,</b> 305 W. Main St., St. Charles, (630) 940-2380, <a href="http://thefineryrestaurant.com/">thefineryrestaurant.com/</a>

<b>• The Grandstander,</b> 507 S. Third St., Geneva, (331) 248-0919