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Italian white wine's journey to prominence in the U.S.

Vini bianchi (Italian white wine) has had a journey of several centuries in the U.S. since the mid-1900s.

Once, Italy's most important exports to the States were Chianti and Enrico Caruso.

Then came the “War to End All Wars,” then World War II. By 1945, the spigot of Italian wine imports had slowed to a trickle.

In 1946, a canny Italian producer figured that even if Americans weren't currently partial to Italy, there were plenty of loyal Italian-Americans thirsting for wine from their homeland.

Tankers loaded with Soave hit our shores; soon all the U.S. — Italian and otherwise — was enjoying this light, bright refreshing white. In the 1970s, Soave sales eclipsed even Chianti.

But Soave's success was its curse. Consumer demand increased production, which demanded vineyard expansion out from the volcanic cliffs of the classic zone to fields more suited to cereal grains.

Quality plummeted; soon, so did sales.

In 1973, when Italy established quasi-quality standards (the Denominazione di Origine, or DOC), many fine producers said “Basta! Enough!” They quit Soave trade organizations and created brand names for labels, not mentioning their region. Wines that remained languished on shelves.

Then, in 1980, a canny American importer “invented” Pinot Grigio (at least in the U.S.), which soared to our Number Two-selling grape. Soave became the stuff of antiquity, with dusty and browning bottles on retail shelves to prove it.

Soave has had a long road back to its stature as one of Italy's finest white wines, but judging by a recent conference sponsored by the Consorzio Tutela Vini Soave, wine producers, the international trade and press are ready for that journey.

Today's finest Soave is light, bright and minerally, with delicate aromas of white flowers, flavors of white tree fruits, raw almonds, zesty citrus and refreshing acidity, woven throughout by firm minerality, like a sip from a mountain stream. With no oak, sugar or excessive alcohol to intrude on flavors, Soave can be one of the wine world's purest expressions of Man, Plant and Planet.

In its home market of Venice, Soave is served with the daily catch from surrounding lagoons and the Adriatic Sea, as well as anchovies, cured salmon and sturgeon.

The region's vast and well-watered agricultural plain yields polenta and Arborio rice for Risi e Bisi (rice with locally grown peas) and risotto con asparago di Arcole, featuring the famous white asparagus from nearby Verona.

Pork is the regional meat mainstay, so Soave is paired with transparent slices of prosciutto and carpaccio as well as rich pork belly.

For the primo (main course), Soave is a natural with Pollo alla Veneziana (chicken breast stuffed with asparagus, mozzarella and pesto in a light cream sauce, possibly employing the local Padovana dal gran ciuffo, an ancient and nobly crested breed of chicken.)

Soave's primary grape is Garganega (gar-GAH-nega), no last-century upstart, but described by Theoderic the Great (ruler of Italy from 493–526) as yielding wine “of beautiful whiteness and clear purity … one would think it was made of lilies.”

According to the excellent document “Soave: Volcanic Wines” published by the Consorzio Tutela Vini Soave, the land was formed by “a prolonged period of massive volcanic explosions,” endowing modern vineyards with black, red, yellow and chalky-white soils, each yielding specific flavors for winegrowers to ply and blend like an artist with his palette.

Wines labeled Soave DOC are the simplest wines. Soave Classico DOC are grown in the classic, volcanic vineyards of Soave and neighboring commune, Monte d'Alpone. Soave Superiore DOCG are grown in the classic zone as well as the hills surrounding Verona, with additional winegrowing and winemaking quality control including extended bottle aging.

Wines may also be labeled with Cru — specific vineyards recognized for superior attributes.

From a catalogue of more than 200 wines tasted, this palate preferred the purity, minerality and vivacity of Fillipi (see Ross's Choice) and these Soave Classico's: Ca' Rugate ($15), Gini ($17) and Gini “La Frosca” ($30), Inama “Vigneti di Foscarino” ($24), Tamellini ($17) and Suavia ($15) and Suavia “Monte Carbonare” ($30).

• Write to Advanced Sommelier and Certified Wine Educator Mary Ross at food@daily herald.com.

Ross' choice

Name: Soave Classico DOC

Region: Soave Classico, Veneto, Italy

Producer: Suavia

Vintage: 2015

Availability: $15 at wine and liquor chains, wine shops

(Distributed by: Vintage Wines, Schiller Park)

Throughout rigorous days and nights of eating and drinking in Soave, Suavia kept popping up, consistently a favorite, whether tasted blind among 200-plus Classico's, tested against time in older vintages (the 2006 showed no hint of age, still fruity, round and minerally), or employed to wash down silky cured meats and risi e bisi, served in the Renaissance gardens and towers that are now Soave's finest ristoranti. Is it this wine's dose of malo-lactic fermentation, coupled with lees contact that smooths Soave's sometimes bony edges? Are Suavia's ripe pear flavors and creamy texture signs of classic Soave or a modern style? I'll need to taste more Soave to know. Until then, make Suavia your unique white alternative, for summertime refreshment and al fresco entertaining.

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