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Choose best asphalt filler based on shape, depth of cracks

Q. Can you give me the name of the commercial grade asphalt crack sealer that you have recommended previously? Also, how large a crack can it fill?

A. There are several asphalt crack sealers sold in hardware and big-box stores. The kind to use depends on how deep the cracks are and their shape.

A shallow V-shaped crack can be filled with a sealer in a caulking-type tube. A deeper crack with vertical walls will need a backer rod of the right size gently pushed down to the bottom of the crack with a dull stick in order to avoid breaking the rod's fragile skin.

Follow the directions on the container.

Sprinkle coarse sand onto the sealer to make the finished product look more natural and to keep the gooey sealer from sticking to shoes.

Q. I have vinyl siding on three sections of my home. On the side with the northern exposure, there is green algae that is starting to develop on the siding. This side only receives late afternoon sun, and there are no trees nearby.

Can you recommend a product that can be used to clean the siding with a pressure washer that will not harm plants and landscaping below this section of siding?

A. The best and most ecologically sound product to use to clean your vinyl siding is Oxy-Boost Stain Remover by EcoGeeks. You can buy it at www.ecogeeks.com. It comes in 5-pound bags. Mix it following directions on the package.

The best way to apply Oxy-Boost is to mix it in a plastic bucket with hot water, making sure that the powder is thoroughly dissolved, and to use a soft-bristle brush to wash the siding.

Pressure washers are not recommended because it is hard to find one with very low pressure (well below 2,500 psi), and it is difficult to make sure that the powder is thoroughly mixed and applied evenly.

The manufacturer states that it will not harm vegetation if it is not sprayed directly on it. Runoff on the ground that may reach the plants' roots is not harmful.

Q. I've never seen you address this issue before, but I'm at my wit's end and perhaps you can help.

We have drain flies in our master bathroom. I'm fairly certain they are coming from the shower drain and not the sinks, but I can't be positive.

We've had this issue before, but usually for a week or two and then they disappear. We have had these flies for about six months now. I've gotten advice from two plumbers, a plumbing-supply store and an exterminator, and nothing has worked. We've tried products to clear the drain, we've cleaned the drain and the trap, we've put bleach down all the drains in the house, including the drains in the basement, and nothing works!

We've lived in this house for 33 years. The house is about 75 years old, but we built the master bedroom/bathroom addition in 1992.

Any advice you can provide would be helpful and most appreciated!

A. To determine if the flies are coming from the shower or other drains, stick some packing tape over the drains, making sure that the edges of the drains to which the tape will be applied are dry. Prick a few small holes in the tape to allow some airflow. Do this in the evening and see if any flies are stuck to the tape the next morning.

Once you have identified the drains from which the flies come, scrape their sides with a sharp knife to remove any "gel" that may have accumulated on them and in which the flies breed.

Then, wash the sides with bleach in soapy water. You may also want to purchase Invade Bio Drain Gel from Amazon and use it following the directions. Users have had mixed results with this product - some claiming great success after repeated application, while others were disappointed.

Q. The previous owners of our house had a mat in the bathtub. I removed the mat and found black stains that I have been unable to remove with Soft Scrub or multiple other powder cleaners. The tub is not made of plastic. Maybe porcelain or enamel? The house was built in 1974. Do you have any suggestions?

A. Try using a solution of equal parts bleach and water to start with. You may need to repeat the treatment until the stains are gone.

If this is not successful, try increasing the proportion of bleach in the mix. You may also want to try Zud, which you should be able to find in the cleaning section of your local supermarket or hardware store.

Q. I have moss or something growing on the north side of my garage roof and gutter. That's the only place. Anything I can do to safely remove it? Perhaps cleaning off the gutter?

A. The growth shown on the photo you sent looks like a combination of lichen, mold and algae.

Try mixing a quart of fresh Clorox bleach and a cup of TSP-PF in a gallon of hot water, and spray it on the affected sections of the roof with a garden sprayer.

A gallon of the mixture is enough to treat 50 square feet of roofing, and should not produce much runoff, which should be avoided. You may need more than a gallon of the mixture, but the proportions I gave you are a guide.

Spray on a quiet day from a ladder, wearing protective clothing including eye protection. Do not rinse. Avoid walking on the roof for safety reasons and because doing so may result in cancellation of the shingle manufacturer's warranty.

Before starting the roof cleaning, cover any vegetation with plastic after soaking it. Rinse the plastic when done and soak the vegetation again. If you have metal gutters, keep water flowing in them until all possible runoff is over.

Q. I have one of those fiberglass shower surrounds, and I put a ding in the floor when I dropped a wrench while repairing the showerhead. At first, it just looked like a black mark, but now I can see a very small (1/16th of an inch) hairline crack.

I was always taught that "a stitch in time saves nine." Is there a glue or epoxy or filler I can use to prevent this from spreading and getting worse? I don't want a leak or to have to replace the surround. The color of the surround is beige. (I've attached a picture so you can see the size and color.)

A. Your best option is to ask a plumbing-supply house to give you the names of repair people who specialize in repairing fiberglass damage.

Q. We replaced our windows several years ago, but the company is now out of business. These windows turned out to be very leaky in strong winds, and several developed condensation between the two glass panes.

We are considering having those windows replaced with more energy-efficient windows, but the cost is a serious consideration.

Would you recommend that we have storm windows installed over the existing windows, instead of total replacement? And what can be done about the condensation between the panes of 12 of those windows?

A. The condensation between the two panes is caused by a failure of the seal between them. The failure can be caused by one or more of several factors: poor manufacturing, improper installation, etc.

The only way to get rid of the condensation is to replace the glazing. It seems better to replace the windows with a more efficient brand instead of installing storm windows, which might develop condensation on their insides because they may be tighter than the leaky primary windows.

If you are looking for wood windows with a plastic or fiberglass exterior, or entirely fiberglass frames, for maintenance-free peace of mind, look into Marvin replacement windows.

Having used several brands over the years, I have found Marvin windows and doors to be high quality and competitively priced, with excellent customer service.

If you are considering vinyl windows, be sure to buy only top-quality brands in order to avoid the same problems you now have. It would be a poor choice to decide on price alone. Do extensive research in local dealerships, which include glass shops as well as window specialists.

Get references of customers who have had any windows you are considering installed several years ago, and check them out.

More on moles from a Vermont reader: "The best mole/vole repellent I have ever seen is pure castor oil. Use a garden sprayer attached to a hose and apply 1 quart per 10,000 square feet. If you add a dash of garlic oil, you can even smell where you have sprayed to ensure total coverage.

"Every time I get a mole/vole outbreak, I spray that area of the yard. They typically leave quickly, and treated areas have remained clear for five years and running!

"The biggest problem is logistics - managing long lengths of garden hose (I have an acre of grassed area that can range anywhere from 100-250 feet from the nearest outdoor faucet). If your local drugstore does not carry bulk castor oil, you can get it at www.drugstore.com - they sometimes even have garlic oil.

• Henri de Marne was a remodeling contractor in Washington, D.C., for many years, and is now a consultant. His book, "About the House," is available at www.upperaccess.com. His website is www.henridemarne.com. Email questions to henridemarne@gmavt.net, or mail First Aid for the Ailing House, Universal Uclick, 1130 Walnut St., Kansas City, MO 64106.

© 2016, United Feature Syndicate Inc.

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