Memphis-style baby back ribs

6 pounds baby back ribs

3 cups barbecue wood chips, soaked in water for 1 hour

2 lemons, halved

¼ cup barbecue rub (see recipe below)

16-ounce bottle barbecue sauce

Prepare a grill for medium-low (about 325 F) indirect cooking. In a charcoal grill, this means banking the hot coals to one side of the grill and cooking the ribs on the cooler side. In a gas grill, this means heating the grill with all burners on, but turning off the burners on one side just before putting the food on that side.

Remove silver skin from the backs of the ribs, if desired.

Place the soaked wood chips directly on the hot charcoals, or in smoking box if using a gas grill (place the box in the grill according to manufacturer directions). Cover the grill.

Rub the cut lemons all over the fronts and backs of the ribs, squeezing to release as much juice as possible. Set aside for 5 minutes, then sprinkle the ribs liberally with the barbecue rub. Let sit for 15 minutes.

Place the ribs, bone side down, in the center of the cooking grate over the cooler side of the grill. Cover the grill and cook 1½ to 2 hours, or until the meat is tender and has pulled back from the ends of the bones. Do not open the grill cover for at least the first 30 minutes. After that, if the ribs start to burn at the edges, stack them on top of one another in the very center of the grill and lower your heat slightly.

Twenty minutes before serving, unstack the ribs if necessary, then brush with barbecue sauce. Remove the ribs from the grill and let rest 10 minutes before cutting into individual or 2- to 3-rib portions.

If desired, additional barbecue sauce can be warmed and served alongside the ribs.

Nutrition information per serving: 1,410 calories; 970 calories from fat (69 percent of total calories); 107 g fat (40 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 365 mg cholesterol; 31 g carbohydrate; 1 g fiber; 22 g sugar; 73 g protein; 1,510 mg sodium.