Naperville Ribfest judges swear to defend 'excellence in barbecue'

It began with a solemn oath.

Naperville Mayor Steve Chirico instructed the judges to stand, raise their right hand and swear to accept a gravely important job. They must refrain from speaking to each other. Dare they rub their belly or let out a whimper of satisfaction in front of their compatriots? Never. The whole process would be tainted.

Just what's at stake?

"Truth, justice, excellence in barbecue and the American way of life," Chirico said.

So help me God.

These are the sought-after judging appointments at the Naperville Exchange Club's Ribfest competition. Eleven ribbers were vying for trophies, bragging rights and "a lot of business" that comes with the win, said Dave Harrington, who co-chaired the event in a white tent at Knoch Park Saturday. As the city's new mayor, Chirico, by default, became a judge, a title he says, with a smile, solidified his decision to seek the office.

Personal preferences are encouraged in this contest. Judges, all in a uniform of navy polo shirts, use their eyes, nose and palette to score ribs on a secret ballot.

Appearance matters - judges removed their sunglasses and leaned forward in their chairs to inspect each succulent slab. Then they rate individuals ribs by taste and tenderness. The rules are so precise that a 12th ribber was disqualified for failing to cut slabs into pieces. If organizers had done it, the cuts could disturb the look, Harrington explained.

A must for Chirico? Fall-off-the bone meat with a "little kick."

"I was very conservative. I took very small portions at the beginning, and I got more and more confidence. And the more I went, I started eating more of it, and then I went back and finished it all off," he said of the samples.

His predecessor, George Pradel, now has two emeritus titles: as former mayor and as Ribfest judge.

"I get to judge the rest of my life. I'm really thrilled," Pradel said. "I can't keep up with the new mayor. He just went right through them."

Pradel took a more disciplined approach, munching on a few bites and then tucking the ribs away in a plastic container for later.

He prefers barbecue over wood chips and a "smooth" taste.

"Oh, I like that," he said with a wink and a white bib around his neck.

Kids got their own say in a separate competition evaluating just ribs.

While the adults reached for paper towels, the youngsters ignored pleasantries. Some were content to let the sauce stick on their faces.

"This is the greatest job," said Jimmy DeTulleo, 16, a Naperville Central High School student who won a raffle to become a judge and prepared with a light breakfast of two slices of toast.

His friend and fellow judge, Kevin LaLiberty, refused to skimp.

"It doesn't taste the same until you see the bone all the way through," he said.

And he now has some political aspirations after sitting at a table next to Chirico and Pradel.

"I think I need to become mayor," he said.

Ribfest continues with food, concerts and family activities from noon to 10 p.m. Saturday and Sunday at Knoch Park. Tickets are $12 at ribfest.net or $15 at the gate.