Lean and lovin' it: Making the case for heritage turkey
Let's talk turkey. Heritage turkey.
Calling a turkey “heritage” is like calling a tomato “heirloom;” both descriptors hark back to a non-hybridized past where flavor was more important than price, profit and ease of shipping.
The Livestock Conservancy uses three criteria to define a heritage bird: First, a heritage turkey reproduces by mating naturally from grandparent and parent stock (no need to define other reproductive options). Second, breeding hens and toms must have a “long productive outdoor life span.” Those turkeys must have a “genetic ability to withstand the environmental rigors of outdoor production systems;” living from 3 to 5 years (toms) and 5 to7 years (hens).
Lastly, heritage turkeys must have a “slow growth rate.” Conventional turkeys reach “market weight” in 14 to 18 weeks, while heritage turkeys take almost twice as long (about 28 weeks).
If you're used to seeing our American standard turkey resting on your Thanksgiving platter, you're likely looking at a Broad Breasted White.
Broad Breasted White describes this turkey well, since it's bred to have a large breast (Americans love lean, white meat) and have all white feathers. A dressed (feathers removed) turkey looks better, more appetizing, if the removed feathers were white.
By 2002, many heritage turkey breeds were on the edge of extinction. Thanks to organizations like Slow Food USA and The Live Stock Conservancy heritage turkeys are on the road to a healthy comeback.
Over the last few years several culinary magazines assembled tasting panels to rate heritage turkeys. Said a foodie on Bon Appétit's panel, “I love, love the flavor of the dark meat on this (heritage) bird.”
A taster for Cook's Illustrated stated: “ ... remarkably tender, moist white meat that tastes like poultry, not just wet fiber.”
If you're considering a heritage turkey for this year's feast, know this: they're expensive (partly due to shipping). That price will seem even higher when you see the loss-leader prices at your local supermarket dip to less than a $1 a pound.
That cost is due to heritage turkeys being a very tiny part of turkey production. Right now, there are only about 25,000 authentic heritage turkeys available every year, compared to roughly 210 million conventional turkeys.
Cook's Illustrated's top-rated heritage bird cost $167 for a 7- to 14-lb bird, plus shipping. Too pricey for me. I'd go with the more reasonably priced, Kansas-born and raised Good Shepherd Poultry Ranch Heritage Turkey, the magazine's third place winner, where a 10-to-12 pound bird costs $119 (plus shipping).
Cook's Illustrated editors also outline keys to successfully roast a heritage turkey: season under the skin the night before; separate dark meat parts from light meat and time the roasting differently; roast the breast to 155 degrees and thighs to 175 degrees.
Whichever turkey you choose, have a terrific Thanksgiving!
Try this recipe: Watching your carbs? Here's a tasty, non-artificially sweetened cranberry sauce that's not only easy to make, but can be made a day or two before.
• Don Mauer welcomes questions comments and recipe makeover requests. Write him at don@theleanwizard.com.