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Amaryllis produce flashy flowers

Gardeners can keep their gardening thumbs green throughout winter months by bringing amaryllis bulbs into bloom. Flamboyant flowers in brilliant shades of red, pink, orange, white and combinations of these brighten even the dreariest, snowy days.

Botanically named Hippeastrum, these plants are native to the Western Cape region of South Africa. Some believe they were introduced to Europe in the 1700s; others think they were discovered in 1828 by Uduard Frederich Poepping, a German physician, on a plant-hunting expedition. Purportedly, Thomas Jefferson mentions amaryllis in his writings as early as 1811.

Today, most amaryllis bulbs are imported from Holland where hybridizers continue to create new varieties so gardeners have a vast selection from which to choose. They can be purchased at your local garden center, from catalogs or on-line.

Select bulbs carefully. Inspect bulbs to be sure they are firm and dry without sign of injury. Purchase the largest bulbs you can find because, when it comes to amaryllis bulbs, size does matter. The larger the bulb, the more stems and flowers it will produce.

If you can't plant bulbs right away, store them in cool, dark spot - 40 to 50 degrees is best. If you want your amaryllis flowering at a particular time, count back six to eight weeks from the desired blooming time. Or plant a few bulbs every two to three weeks for nonstop blooms all winter long.

Planting

Choose a heavy container or add rocks to a lightweight pot - amaryllis flowers are heavy. The container must have drainage, should be deep enough for strong roots to develop, and just an inch or two wider than the bulb. Amaryllis prefer to be snug in their pots. I like to plant five to seven bulbs in a bowl placing them barely an inch apart.

Fill the container with good quality, well-drained potting soil. Plant bulbs so their 'shoulders' are just above soil level. Press the soil firmly around the bulb and water thoroughly. Place the pot in a sunny spot and hold off on watering again until you see growth begin.

As the stem emerges, water regularly. It won't take long for stems to reach one to two feet tall and the magnificent flowers to open. To help blooms last as long as possible, move the pot out of direct sunlight.

Care after blooming

Proper care after your amaryllis after their blooms have faded will result in a repeat performance next year. Deadhead flowers as they decline. Wait to remove stems until they yellow. When all the flowers have been removed, move the pot back to a sunny location.

After all danger of frost has passed in the spring, you can plant your amaryllis outside, pot and all. Introduce it to its new digs slowly. Start it in a shady spot to acclimate it before moving it to a brighter location. Continue to water and fertilize with a balanced houseplant fertilizer as leaves grow all summer.

Before the first frost in fall, it's time to bring the amaryllis back inside and put it in a sunny window. Let the soil dry completely. Cut back the foliage after it browns. Move it to a cool, dark place where it can rest for 8 to 12 weeks.

After this respite, begin the process all over again. Because amaryllis enjoy to be potbound, they won't require repotting every year. When they do, repot them now.

Few bulbs are as easy to grow.

Pick up some for yourself and a few more to give as holiday gifts for gardening friends.

• Diana Stoll is a horticulturist and garden center manager at The Planter's Palette, 28W571 Roosevelt Road, Winfield. Call (630) 293-1040, ext. 2, or visit planterspalette.com.

An amaryllis is a welcome punch of color indoors.
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